Oil based automotive paint

Oil based automotive paint DEFAULT

With new rules regulating the use of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in spray paint now in effect, auto-body shop operators are under pressure to quickly convert from traditional solvent-based paints to newer water-based ones. While this is a bit of a hardship on many paint shop operations, there are a number of advantages the new coatings offering that should help small businesses justify the cost of making the transition.


In the United States, the federal rules governing the use of VOCs fall under the umbrella of the Environmental Protection Agency’s National Emission Standards for Hazardous Air Pollutants (NESHAP) guidelines (with individual states maintaining similar provisions). The EPA states that the health risks of VOCs include: “Eye, nose, and throat irritation; headaches, loss of coordination, nausea; damage to liver, kidney, and central nervous system. Some organics can cause cancer in animals; some are suspected or known to cause cancer in humans.”

For those working in the repair and refinishing industry, those words should be fair warning to make the switch to waterborne automobile paints. Still, if further rationalization is needed, consider that the automotive industry releases about 210,000 tons of ozone-producing solvents into the atmosphere each year, with the manufacture and application of paint accounting for about 32% of all VOC emissions.

Ready-to-use conventional base-coats have a VOC solvent content of around 84% (and 16% solids), whereas a typical waterborne base-coat is composed of about 70% water (and 20% solids) and 10% solvent. So the reduction in solvent use in making the switchover is substantial.

The new federal and state regulations, essentially, mean that American paint shops will need to use waterborne paints in order to comply. Although many operators are reluctant to change, it may be a good thing for the industry for several reasons. The benefits of the regulations are:

  1.       Better for the environment: Less toxic paint is important, elevated concentrations can persist in the air long after painting or repainting is completed, according to the EPA.
  2.       Healthier for your staff: Waterborne paint reduces the emission of VOCs, improving air quality and supposedly reducing the health risk to all involved (see Study: Exposure to Solvent Fumes Can Impair Cognitive Ability Long After Retirement).  
  3.       New and improved products: Transition to waterborne paint has prompted paint companies to develop new products.
  4.       Less clearcoat needed: For multiple hues and striping,waterborne paint has an advantage when it comes to spraying due to a thinner application.  It takes less clearcoat to even out the surface for the different layers.
  5.       Cleaner/brighter than solvent-based paint: In painting with waterborne paint, wet paint tends to have a different hue from the true color. Once it dries, the waterborne paint will take on the true hue. Interestingly, when it comes to the actual color with waterborne, it comes out cleaner/brighter than a solvent-based paint.

So, if you’re considering making the switch, the investment in new equipment you will need is minimal.

You’ll need a stainless steel paint gun, to avoid rust and good air flow. To cut down on drying time, it’s important to have a large volume of clean air to enhance drying. (For a detailed look at how to go about making the jump to waterborne paint, check out: A Compressed Air Checklist for Waterborne Paint Conversion.) And you can’t do better than selecting a Mattei compressor for use in your new waterborne-paint application facility.

To learn more about choosing a Mattei compressor visit our site, or contact us, here.

View Mattei's Rotary Vane Compressor eBook



Sours: http://compressors.matteicomp.com/blog/5-benefits-of-waterborne-vs-solvent-based-automotive-paint

Introduction: Paint Your Car With Rustoleum

Do you have a fun car that you just KNOW will go faster with a brand new paint job?

This method is based on the idea of using a foam paint roller to put many layers of Rustoleum on your car. Except, I used a professional airgun and only 2 coats. The result? Pretty dang good, for the money.


So why Rustoleum? Well, on the internet you can find people who rolled it on, and the cars look pretty good. But most of all, you can get a quart for under $5 at any hardware store, whereas automotive paint can be 20-50 times that much.

I have a neighbor who has a paint shop in his garage, so I got to use his spray gun. You will need a spray gun and air compressor, but if you don't you can still try rolling on the paint.

Other thoughts:

Throughout the project I kept telling myself, "self, if this works out...you'll have to do an Instructable on it," and it worked out, so this is my first instructable.

Note: I'm not liable for....anything. If you ruin your car, my condolences but remember, YOU did it. However you probably won't ruin your car unless you try.

Step 1: Preparation

First, you'll need some items:

  • A car you're willing to ruin the paint job on
  • 2-4 quarts (depending on size of car) of gloss Rustoleum - color of your choice
  • 4 or more cans of Rustoleum auto primer spray paint
  • 1 quart of acetone
  • 1 can of Bondo (optional)
  • Sand paper - 120, 400, 800 grit (or the closest you can get)
  • Mixing can/bottle/whatever
  • Stir stick
  • Masking tape and paper
  • 4" super-fine foam paint roller (optional)
  • Spray gun - bigger nozzle seems to work better
  • Air compressor - big enough for the spray gun's requirements
  • Dry, well-ventilated area to paint in
  • A bunch of misc. tools - these may include screw drivers, ratchet sets, allen wrenches, a can of liquid wrench
  • 2 gallons of diligence

You'll do well to make sure the primer is Rustoleum, to ensure compatibility (paint can act stupidly if it doens't like the primer). Also, use dark primer if your car color is dark (blue, green, black, etc) and lighter primer if the paint is lighter. This way you won't have to spray on 20 coats to cover it up.

It's also a good idear to handle any bodywork your car needs. If you don't want to do this, get a professional to do it but see if you can have him skip painting it to save money. However, for small dents Bondo (or any number of superior, more expensive fillers) is really quite easy to use. I had to replace a destroyed fender and bondo a big dent on the hood before painting, but it was a lot easier than you'd think.

Step 2: Remove Trim

Look at your car. Especially in the door jams. Imagine masking all those little parts off, one by one....sound like fun? No. Remove them (this may be a long process, but most trim comes off pretty easily with the right tools).

What exactly should you remove?

  • Hood, trunk, gas tank lid (if removable) - these are a lot easier to paint separately
  • Rubber gaskets/trim
  • Lights
  • Reflectors
  • License plates
  • Door latching stuff
  • Pretty much anything that goes over a painted surface, that you can remove safely

Stash all the parts somewhere they won't get lost, stolen, rained on, etc. A nice empty work table is great, then you can lay them out in an organized way - i.e. NOT like this:

Step 3: Sand!

Sanding the car before painting it is like...opening a bank account before making a deposit. Ya just gotta do it. First, use strong soap, wax and grease remover, or whatever you have lying around to clean the heck out of the paint. Then sand it with 300 or 400 grit paper.

For difficult areas, you may want to get some abrasive foam or scouring material that conforms better than regular sand paper. The point is to completely eliminate the shininess of the finish, and get past the clear coat. You don't want to sand down to bare metal, there's no point.

Step 4: Bondo!

In case you do have some dents you'd like to make go away, it's nice and easy. Ask yourself: is this dent really big, like over an inch deep and 6 inches wide? If so, get a dent puller or something ( not my area of expertise ).

For small dents, sand 2 inches all around the dent down to bare metal (use really rough sandpaper, maybe 120 grit). Make sure the metal part is really rough. Then get a can of Bondo - you can find it everywhere - and mix it up on a clean, non-porous surface. Slap it on the dent, cover the whole area past flush.

Try not to get bubbles mixed in, these look terrible. Then you sand the Bondo back down to flush, using really big sanding strokes to make it even with the whole surface. Use progressively finer sand paper to get a nice smooth end product. You shouldn't be able to feel where the Bondo blends into the car.

Step 5: Mask!

You don't want to paint your window now do you? No...that wouldn't be very smart. But never fear, masking tape is here! You'll need painters tape (blue) or extra strong auto masking tape (green) to cover all the areas that are already the right color.

Some things to mask:

  • Windshield
  • Side windows
  • Rear window
  • Mirrors
  • Rubber gaskets that you weren't able to remove in step 2
  • Door handles
  • The inside of the car (you'll have the doors open when you paint)
  • Tail pipe
  • Engine bay
  • Radiator (believe me, it looks quite retarded if paint gets on there when you paint the front of the car)
  • Tires
  • Any important-looking labels inside the door that have important car information

Again, things like tail lights, head lights, rubber gaskets, car logos, etc should really be removed before you paint, or it will end up looking like a noob did it with finger paint.

For big areas use quality masking paper or cardboard, and garbage bags work well for tires.

The quality of the mask job is immeasurably important. If you do super crisp accurate masking, your paint job will look like the car was always that color. Spend as much time on this step as possible.

Step 6: Prime!

You put primer on the car so the regular paint stays on. Pretty straight forward. I used spray paint, since this doesn't really affect the final finish. Rustoleum makes "automotive primer" so I figured that was appropriate. I'm not qualified to give any advice on spraying, other than do it outside and wear a mask so you don't get cancer.

Prepare the surface

Use some tack cloth and clean off all the loose paint and dust on the car.


The coat doesn't need to be thick, but it has to cover everything. Spray it on, have fun.
Let the stuff dry...maybe an hour or 2 before you paint a second coat (if it needs it). Let it dry for a day or two.

Sand it!

According to my professional car painter neighbor, you should sand the primer before painting on the top coat. Since fresh primer is extremely "soft", you can use 800 or so grit and get a really smooth surface. Be very careful not to sand through the primer though, or you'll have to spray on some more.

Step 7: Paint!!!

This is the big showdown. You'll have spent many hours preparing by now, and this is the moment you've all been waiting for! If you want to try rolling on the Rustoleum, be my guest. People have had success with that in the past, but I have a feeling that doing the door jams would be hell and half compared to spraying it on.

You may want to re-mask everything, because dust and paint on the used masking paper can find its way onto your new finish. And remember to clean off all dust on the car by hitting it with compressed air or using tack cloth.

For rolling on paint:

Get a foam paint roller - 4" wide should do, and make sure it's as fine as possible. This creates a very smooth finish if the paint is thin enough.

Mix acetone into the rustoleum in a mixing can. I've read that you want something around the consistency of water, which means a LOT of acetone. You'll probably need more than 1 quart to do the whole car. When mixing paint, stir it with a stick, DON'T shake it or bubbles will happen.

Note: This method requires a lot more patience than spraying, as you're supposed to do 8 or 10 coats, sanding in between each one if orange peel starts happening. I highly reccomend you read the original source of this method (which inspired this entire project) here:

For spraying it on:

To spray on paint, mix a little acetone into the paint. The can recommends no more than 5%, but don't worry about that since the thinner the paint, the smoother it goes on. However, it is also more likely to run on vertical surfaces so be careful.

This process is somewhat risky, but has great potential. Hard to get areas like door jams, cracks, etc will look amazing when the paint is sprayed on. On the other hand, the entire car may turn out looking like an orange. If that happens, you probably need to mix in more acetone.

If you get lots of orange peel, fish eyes, or other demonic paint problems, you can always sand them away and try again, and in hard to get to areas it won't matter anyway. Spraying on multiple coats also makes for a smoother finish. Wait a few hours between coats to allow drying.

Leave the paint to dry peacefully for at least a few days. I let my car sit in a dry garage for over a week before putting any of the trim back.

Step 8: Finish the Job

After your paint is nice and dry (it should be invulnerable to you pressing your fingernail into it), you can put all the trim back on. Admire your work, and make sure not to scratch it! I did while carrying the hood, and got rather upset.


There were a few flaws in the paint, such as the occasional fish eye or scratch (a cat decided to use the door as a scratching post, god I hate cats) but overall looked excellent. I plan on putting two 6-inch white stripes down the car later, which I will probably use Rustoleum spray paint to do.

All in all this was very fun, very experimental, but also quite satisfying. The trick is to have a positive attitude about it...since you don't knowit's going to turn out well, you have to just assume it will. If the finish looks bad, sand it and try again. The forces of good will prevail.

Step 9: Long-Term Results

After almost 2 years, I have finally washed the car for the first time! Lots of people have been asking for new pictures of the car, so on America's birthday I washed off a thick layer of dust to find that....it looks as good as new! When compared to the original photos, the paint looks as bright, shiny and clean as ever.

For a while I kept the car under a UV-shielded car cover, and for the last 6 months it's been under a carport, to minimize the UV exposure (a good practice for regular automotive paint too). Note that there are a few issues...in one or two locations the paint has cracked from impacts, but more noticeably there are a few spots where bird droppings dissolved the paint. This happened because I neglected to wash off said droppings for several weeks. I will probably touch up these spots with the spray-paint version of Rustoleum.

Anyway....below are the photos, which speak for themselves! They are not altered in any way besides resizing and blurring the plates. Also, it was much sunnier out (July at 2:00 vs December at 5:00) when I took the new pics, so the color doesn't look exactly the same as the old ones.

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Sours: https://www.instructables.com/Paint-Your-Car-With-Rustoleum/
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The quality and longevity of a cars paint job depend on three things. First, the prep work, including sanding, smoothing, and fully cleaning the surface. Second, the quality of the materials used, including paint and thinners. Third, the painting process itself.

Painting a car with a foam roller (not the fluffy ones that you use on drywall) is a low quality process compared to spray, but can still be pretty decent as long as you still put lots of effort into prep work and use good materials!

For prep, you need to sand the entire car. Even a single square inch missed will cause the paint to peel! You should sand to at least 400 grit, probably doing a once over with 220 and then working up to 400. Smooth any rough spots out and fill them with bondo as necessary. You also need to fully clean the car. A full water and soap wash (rinse all the soap!) followed by a wash with some mild thinners to remove any oils should do the job. You can keep it dust free by wiping with cheesecloth at the end. If you are doing any filling, take lots of care to properly smooth them and mix them properly. You will also need to prime the car. Do multiple coats and sand lightly between coats with 400 grit.

Now to the paint. I highly recommend not using Rustoleum. It does not have anti uv properties, and will fade in a year or two. It also will shrink over time in the sun and crack and peel. The paint is also too soft for automotive. What you really need is a quality paint that will cure and not shrink over time. An acrylic enamel is probably the best way to go for a beginner. It's a lot easier than basecoat-clearcoat. A paint that is made for automotive applications will last a lot longer and be better quality Also make sure you thin it properly with the right thinners. It will cost a bit more than Rustoleum but is well worth it.

If you paint with a foam roller, you will need to let each coat fully cure, and then sand between coats, using a 400 to 600 grit paper, just like the primer. Don't rush it!! If you try sanding paint that it still slightly wet you will really screw the paint job up. It will take a day or two between coats. Also don't press the roller too hard or the edges of the roller will bleed out and cause 'ropes' or lines in your paint. Paint lightly and take your time! When you are done with your last coat and it is fully cured, buff and wax the car. It will look great!!

Good luck and I hope this helps!

Sours: https://www.noodle.com/questions/quyE/whats-the-secret-mixture-for-rustoleum-oil-based-paint-to-paint-a-car

Automotive paint

Robotic arm applying paint on car parts.

Automotive paint is paint used on automobiles for both protection and decoration purposes.[1][2] Water-based acrylic polyurethaneenamel paint is currently the most widely used paint for reasons including reducing paint's environmental impact.

Modern automobile paint is applied in several layers, with a total thickness of around 100 µm(0.1mm). Paint application requires preparation and primer steps to ensure proper application. A basecoat is applied after the primer paint is applied. Following this, a clearcoat of paint may be applied that forms a glossy and transparent coating. The clearcoat layer must be able to withstand UV light.


In the early days of the automobile industry, paint was applied manually and dried for weeks at room temperature because it was a single component paint that dried by solvent evaporation. As mass production of cars made the process untenable, paint began to be dried in ovens. Nowadays, two-component (catalyzed) paint is usually applied by robotic arms and cures in just a few hours either at room temperature or in heated booths.

Until several decades ago lead, chromium, and other heavy metals were used in automotive paint. Environmental laws have prohibited this, which has resulted in a move to water-based paints. Up to 85% of Lacquer paint can evaporate into the air, polluting the atmosphere. Enamel paint is better for the environment and replaced lacquer paint in the late 20th century.[1] Water-based acrylic polyurethane enamels are now almost universally used as the basecoat with a clearcoat.[3]

Processes and coatings[edit]


High-pressure water spray jets are directed to the body. Without proper pretreatment, premature failure of the finish system can almost be guaranteed. A phosphate coat is necessary to protect the body against corrosion effects and prepares the surface for the E-Coat.

The body is dipped into the Electro-Coat Paint Operation (ELPO/E-Coat), then a high voltage is applied. The body works as a cathode and the paint as an anode sticking on the body surface. It is an eco-friendly painting process. In E-Coat, also called CED paint, use is approximately 99.9% and provides superior salt spray resistance compared to other painting processes.[4]


See also: Primer (paint)

The primer is the first coat to be applied. The primer serves several purposes.

  • It serves as a leveler, which is important since the cab often has marks and other forms of surface defect after being manufactured in the body shop. A smoother surface is created by leveling out these defects and therefore a better final product.
  • It protects the vehicle from corrosion, heat differences, bumps, stone-chips, UV-light, etc.
  • It improves ease of application by making it easier for paints to stick to the surface. Using a primer, a more varied range of paints can be used.

Base Coat[edit]

See also: Metallic paint

The base coat is applied after the primer coat. This coat contains the visual properties of color and effects, and is usually the one referred to as the paint. Base coat used in automotive applications is commonly divided into three categories: solid, metallic, and pearlescent pigments.

  • Solid paints have no sparkle effects except the color. This is the easiest type of paint to apply, and the most common type of paint for heavy transportation vehicles, construction equipment and aircraft. It is also widely used on cars, trucks, and motorcycles. Clear coat was not used on solid colors until the early 1990s.
  • Metallic paints contain aluminium flakes to create a sparkling and grainy effect, generally referred to as a metallic look. This paint is harder to manage than solid paints because of the extra dimensions to consider. Metallic and pearlescent paints must be applied evenly to ensure a consistent looking finish without light and dark spots which are often called "mottling". Metallic basecoats are formulated so that the aluminium flake is parallel to the substrate. This maximises the "flop". This is the difference in the brightness between looking perpendicularly at the paint and that at an acute angle. The "flop" is maximised if the basecoat increases in viscosity shortly after application so that the aluminium flake which is in a random orientation after spraying is locked into this position while there is still much solvent (or water) in the coating. Subsequent evaporation of the solvent (or water), leads to a reduction in the film thickness of the drying coating, causing the aluminium flake to be dragged into an orientation parallel to the substrate. This orientation then needs to be unaffected by the application of the clear coat solvents. The formulation of the clear coat needs to be carefully chosen so that it will not "re-dissolve" the basecoat and thus affect the orientation of the metallic flake but will still exhibit enough adhesion between the coatings so as to avoid delamination of the clear coat. A similar mode of action occurs with pearlescent pigmented basecoats.
  • Pearlescent paints contain special iridescent pigments commonly referred to as "pearls". Pearl pigments impart a colored sparkle to the finish which works to create depth of color. Pearlescent paints can be two stage in nature (pearl base color + clear) or 3 stage in nature (basecoat + pearl mid-coat + clear-coat).[5]


Usually sprayed on top of a colored basecoat, clearcoat is a glossy and transparent coating that forms the final interface with the environment. For this reason, clearcoat must be durable enough to resist abrasion and chemically stable enough to withstand UV light. Clearcoat can be either solvent or water-borne.[6]

One part and two part formulations are often referred to as "1K" and "2K" respectively.[7] Car manufacturer (OEM) clear coats applied to the metal bodies of cars are normally 1K systems since they can be heated to around 140 °C to effect cure. The clear coats applied to the plastic components like the bumpers and wing mirrors however are 2K systems since they can normally only accept temperatures up to about 90 °C. These 2K systems are normally applied "off line" with the coated plastic parts fixed to the painted metallic body. Owing to the difference in formulation of the 1K and 2K systems and the fact they are coated in different locations they have a different effect on the "redissolving" of the metallic base coat. This is most easily seen in the light metallic paints like the silver and light blue or green shades where the "flop" difference is most marked.


The terminology for automotive paints has been driven by the progression of technologies and by the desire to both distinguish new technologies and relate to previous technologies for the same purpose. Modern car paints are nearly always an acrylic polyurethane "enamel" with a pigmented basecoat and a clear topcoat. It may be described as "acrylic", "acrylic enamel", "urethane", etc. and the clearcoat in particular may be described as a lacquer. True lacquers and acrylic lacquers are obsolete, and plain acrylic enamels have largely been superseded by better-performing paints.[8] True enamel is not an automotive paint. The term is common for any tough glossy paint but its use in the automotive industry is often restricted to older paints before the introduction of polyurethane hardeners.[9]

Types and Form[edit]

Innovations are taking place in paint industry as well. These days, automotive paints come in liquid form, spray form, and powder forms:-

  • Liquid: Usually polyurethane paints. Compressor is needed to apply.
  • Spray: This is as same as perfume in spray bottle. Made for DIYer.
  • Powder or additive: Paints in powder form applied after mixing in paint thinner.

Types of Automotive Paints

  • Removable: These kinds of paints are made for giving custom appearance to vehicle.
  • Non-removable: Made for touch-ups and painting vehicle.

See also[edit]

  • Fordite, automotive paint which has been layered and dried over time

How to paint over chrome[edit]

You can prepare a chrome bumper for paint washing with soap and water, wiping with a waxy material, and using sandpaper to remove any rusty content from the surface of a chrome bumper. You can also spray self-etching primer before applying paint.[10]


Sours: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_paint

Based automotive paint oil

Automotive Paint - Beginner's Guide

| How-To - Paint and Body

It's cool to paint your own car, but talking to the guy at the paint store may cause you to reconsider your plan. Enamel? Urethane? Two-part? Single-stage? The terminology alone can send many people right back out the door. We'll help you sort through some of the confusion with a parts-store cheat sheet, share some of our knowledge based on personal experience, talk to a couple of pro painters, and illustrate some of the latest trendy ideas that even the novice can pull off.

The BasicsAll paints are made up of three ingredients: binder, pigment, and a carrier agent. Pigment, or tint, is self-explanatory-it's the color you see. Binder is often referred to as resin, and it can be helpful to think of it like tree sap, that thick, sticky hydrocarbon liquid that hardens when exposed to air. And carrier agent refers to the solution that the resin is suspended in. It keeps the binder in liquid form until it is applied, at which time it either evaporates or chemically bonds to the surface of the car.

Automotive paint resins are usually one of the following three chemical compounds: lacquer, enamel, or urethane. Lacquer is difficult to find (and illegal to spray) in pollution-controlled areas of the country, but it's worth mentioning because you'll still hear guys waxing poetic about hand-rubbed lacquer. The appeal of lacquer is that it's easy to spray, and it dries to a smooth, glossy show-car finish. Compared to today's paints, though, lacquer is crap because it needs a lot of maintenance in the form of waxing and buffing, and it becomes brittle with age. Exposure to sunlight accelerates its aging, and if not religiously maintained, lacquer will be cracked and chalky in a few years. It's also the gross polluter of the paint world because lacquer cures by drying rather than chemically bonding to the car. In other words, the liquid portions of the paint evaporate, leaving the tinted resin, or color coat, behind. Those liquid portions are highly toxic solvents like toluene that don't react well with Green Party members. So lacquer is great for a show car that spends 90 percent of its life in a climate-controlled garage, but not practical on a driver.

That leaves enamels and urethanes as the remaining options. To confound novice painters, there are many varieties of these resins. There are synthetic, acrylic, and even hybrids of the two (urethane enamel, for example). But in general, urethane and enamel refer to the chemistry of the hydrocarbon polymers that form the resin of the paint. And that chemistry affects the look and durability of the finish, how it is sprayed on the car, and, of course, how much it costs.

Seeking clarity, we spoke to some industry insiders about the differences between these two compounds, and all were in agreement: Enamels are a softer resin, usually dry to a glossy finish, and are less expensive than urethanes. Urethanes are generally a more durable product but can be more difficult to spray. Most new cars are painted with a type of urethane, and most collision repair shops use urethane to repair damage. Maaco, Earl Scheib, and 1-Day Paint often use enamels for their economy.

Single-stage, Two-componentOnce you've chosen the type of paint you'll be spraying, you may have a couple more options: One- or two-part? Single-stage or basecoat/ clearcoat?

One- or two-part (or -component) is also referred to as 1K or 2K, and it simply means that the paint either does or does not require an activator to dry. One-part products are ready to spray-they may need to be diluted with a solvent, sometimes referred to as a reducer or thinner, to flow through the spray gun properly, but they will dry on their own. Usually one-part paints are not used to repaint an entire car. Nearly all aerosol-can paints are one-part, as are One Shot pinstriping enamels and specialty products like Eastwood's Chassis Black.

Two-part products need an activator, sometimes referred to as a hardener, to stimulate the chemical reaction that causes the components of the paint to cross-link and bond to the surface of the car. We refer to this chemical reaction as "drying," though it really is not drying in the sense of evaporating. Unactivated two-part paint will not dry on its own and therefore has a longer shelf life than one-part paint. For the suede and kustom guys, it's worth noting that two-part products are weatherproof and nonporous. You can leave your car in a 2K primer and not worry about the sheetmetal rusting from the inside out.

Single-stage paint dries to a glossy finish and does not need a clearcoat, whereas the basecoat, or color coat, of a basecoat/clearcoat (BC/CC) system dries to a matte or semigloss finish. The subsequent coats of clear paint are what make it shine. Which one is better? In terms of quality, both are good; it just depends on what color you want. If you want a basic red, black, yellow, or whatever, you can save yourself some time and money by using a single-stage paint-you will not need to clearcoat it. If you want a metallic finish, there are some available in single-stage, but you may be better off with a BC/CC system. The extra layer of clear is added protection against scratches and chips, and it allows for more wet-sanding for an ultrasmooth gloss. If you're thinking about something wilder like a metalflake or pearl, you must use a BC/CC system because the metalflake and pearl treatments are sprayed in between the color and clearcoat.

So those are the basics to arm yourself with before going to the paint store. If you are still up for painting your car, Brian Ferre, a painter for over 30 years and an instructor at Los Angeles Trade Technical College (LATTC), says today's paints are the best they have ever been. He recommends that you pick a brand and use its products throughout the entire paint job. That way each layer, from etching primer to topcoat, will be compatible. Chemistry can vary from brand to brand, and mixing products can sometimes cause strange things to happen to the finish. You don't want to have to sand off your newly clearcoated car because the basecoat started lifting off the primer. For a step-by-step of a recent paint job we did, check out the April '07 issue, in which we gave the CC/Rambler a BC/CC paint job. For our experiments we decided to check out some of the less expensive single-stage paints, as well as a water-based paint from Auto-Air Colors.

Waterborne And Water-Based PaintCalifornia is in the process of further lowering the amount of air pollution emitted by automotive paints, and its guidelines are usually adopted by many other areas of the country within a few years. Even though modern paints don't dry by evaporation, some chemicals called volatile organic compounds (V0Cs) are released when the paint is atomized at the tip of the spray gun and as the paint cures. These VOCs are what allegedly put holes in the ozone layer, rot your brain, and cause confusion, poor math scores, plagues, famines, and other natural disasters. Actually, most of the ingredients in paint are poisonous, and some of the solvents are things like isocyanates-chemicals closely related to cyanide that were used to execute people in the gas chamber-so it is worth looking into eliminating some of these byproducts.

Waterborne paints are the generally accepted solution to that problem. While they're still solvent-based, meaning the carrier agents are petroleum products, the carrier and binder will mix with water, and water is in fact one of the ingredients of the carrier agents in these paints that evaporates as part of the paint-curing process. Waterborne paints have been the industry standard in Europe for several years because regulations are more stringent than in the U.S. There's no need to fear waterborne paints-when was the last time you saw bad paint on a new BMW? All of the major brands available in the U.S., such as PPG, DuPont, and Sherwin-Williams, will be bringing their versions of waterborne paints to market soon.

While the big guys scramble to get their waterborne paints out, there is a small company in Connecticut that has been making completely water-based automotive paint for almost 30 years. Auto-Air Colors started in 1978, marketing its products to custom painters and airbrush artists. Craig Kennedy now runs the company begun by his parents, and we spoke to him about its paint. "Basically, it starts out as a giant blob of plastic," he says, referring to the acrylic polymer that forms the resin for Auto-Air's products. "We then add things to it to keep it in a liquid state." The majority of Auto-Air's carrier agent is water, which separates it from other waterborne paints. Auto-Air has no solvents and emits no VOCs as it dries. "You could drink it if you want to, though we don't recommend it," Kennedy says. He happily sent us a quart of basic black to try out, which we took to Ferre at LATTC so he could show us how to use it.

Since no one makes a water-based clearcoat, you'll have to spray a solvent-based clear over an Auto-Air basecoat. The company offers a wide variety of colors and a lot of cool custom options, from candies and pearls to metalflake and fluorescent colors. Kennedy says the trends he's seeing now are subtle two-tone paint jobs and pearl accents being used on body lines. "Real fire is dead," he says. "We're seeing a lot more toned-down paint jobs, and the two-tone is coming back." Judging by the ease with which our basic black went on, we may just try out a custom paint job of our own. Stay tuned for the outcome.



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Sours: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ccrp-0709-automotive-paint/
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