Common Issues with Jeep Wranglers
There’s no denying the rugged appeal of the Jeep Wrangler. This tough vehicle can tackle everything from a morning commute to off-road adventures with ease. But Jeep Wranglers still have a variety of issues that can lead to extensive and costly repairs. Each generation has its own set of problems to watch for. We’ve compiled an overview of the most common Jeep Wrangler problems and what to know before buying a Jeep Wrangler.
A Brief History of the Jeep Wrangler
The Wrangler as we know it did not appear until 1986. However, the Wrangler gets much of its style and capability from the Jeep CJs that came before it.
- The CJ (1945-1986): Before World War II, Jeeps were only used as military vehicles. Near the end of the war, the first CJ, or “civilian Jeep,” was released. It had a tailgate, a canvas top and lower gearing to make it more civilian-friendly while keeping a classic Jeep look.
- The YJ (1986-1995):The first Wrangler was the YJ, which was introduced at the 1986 Chicago Auto show. It had the same frame as the CJ, but got a new look with rectangular headlights. The YJ’s suspension and interior features came from the Cherokee.
- The TJ (1996-2006): The release of the TJ in 1996 marked the beginning of the second generation Wrangler. Improvements to this generation included a stiffer body and frame, coil springs and round headlights. The engine choices remained the same as the YJ, making the TJ less of a relaunch and more of a heavy redesign.
- The JK (2007-2018): Today, most Wranglers have a four-door cab — but this option didn’t appear until the JK debuted in 2007. The third generation offered traction and stability control to increase safety, and kept features like removable doors, soft tops and fold-down windshields.
Common Issues With 2007-2018 Jeep Wranglers
The third generation of Jeep Wranglers is considered the least dependable. It has the most complaints and lowest-rated reliability among consumers, with multiple issues affecting every part of the vehicle. Let’s take a look at some of the most common issues with Jeep Wranglers of this era.
1. TIPM Failure
A vehicle’s electrical system depends on a functional totally integrated power module (TIPM). The TIPM facilitates everything from the fuel pump moving gasoline and power window function, to the headlights and throttle control. Without the TIPM, even the radio won’t work correctly.
Fiat-Chrysler vehicles from 2007 to 2015 are notorious for early TIPM failure. The Liberty, Grand Cherokee and Wrangler from these model years are all susceptible to this inconvenient and dangerous issue. Symptoms of TIPM failure include:
- Fuel pump remaining on and burning out due to constant use
- Airbags refusing to deploy or deploying at random
- Engine stalling while the vehicle is in motion
- Starter cranking but refusing to start
- Horn honking at random intervals
- Power windows getting stuck
- Doors locking or unlocking without input
Many owners describe a faulty or failed TIPM as making the vehicle feel “possessed.” Chrysler acknowledged the issue by sending out a recall for the 2007 Wrangler. The company blamed the dangerous stalling on a TIPM timing error. Even though many other year models were affected by the issue, none of them received a recall. Owners had to pay for repairs or replacements out of pocket.
TIPM issues are expensive, with the average TIPM repair cost at $1,200. Many reports occur while the vehicle is still under 40,000 miles.
2. The “Death Wobble”
The death wobble is something many Jeep owners have experienced firsthand. When the wobble kicks in, the driver feels the steering wheel shake violently. It usually happens after hitting a pothole or experiencing another jolt, and can sometimes be triggered by pressing hard on the brake pedal.
While it may feel like the vehicle’s axle or wheels will fly off, that isn’t something to worry about — no one has died as a result of a death wobble. If it happens, keeping a cool head can help drivers regain control and continue safely to a mechanic.
The death wobble occurs when steering components come loose or become damaged. It can also happen when someone installs suspension or steering parts incorrectly. The first step of diagnosis is to see if any parts have been bent or broken in the front suspension. Possible causes of the death wobble include:
- Ball joints
- Drag link and tie rod ends
- Front track bar
- Lower control arms
- Upper control arms
- Steering knuckles
- Steering stabilizer
- Suspension bushings
All these parts need to be inspected for excessive wear and damage. When troubleshooting the death wobble, try tightening all the hardware to the manufacturer-specified torque. Improper wheel alignment and unbalanced tires aren’t typically the source of the death wobble, but these conditions can make the issue much worse.
Most reports show no clear solution to the death wobble, and many owners have attempted to have the issue fixed multiple times. For the 2007 Wrangler, owners report spending almost $900 on attempted repairs, and few of those repairs permanently fixed the issue. Despite how common this problem is, Chrysler has not issued a recall.
3. TPS Failure
The throttle position sensor (TPS) relays information to the engine control module (ECM). It communicates how open the engine throttle is at any point so the ECM can properly alter emissions, ignition timing and fuel metering. The TPS is vulnerable to failure due to its complex combination of electrical and mechanical components.
When the TPS fails, its voltage readings will be incorrect and the check engine light will come on. The TPS sends information to the ECM that affects shift points in the transmission, leading to unexpected shifting issues that can be very dangerous while driving.
Signs of TPS failure to look for include:
- Bucking or jerking when the engine is under moderate stress
- Strange surges in speed
- Engine stalling suddenly and for no reason
- Reduced power and fuel economy
- Hesitation under acceleration
- Delayed shifts
- Difficulty changing gears
The average cost for a TPS replacement on a Jeep Wrangler ranges from about $130 to $150. Labor costs are estimated between $70 and $90, while the parts are typically priced around $60.
Shop 2007-2018 Wrangler Parts »
Common Issues With 1997-2006 Jeep Wranglers
Though the second generation has fewer registered complaints over time, there are still some 1997 Jeep Wrangler problems that affect all the model years in this range.
1. Transmission Recalls
Jeep Wrangler models starting in 2005 are famous for multiple recalls related to the automatic transmission and power train. The transmission may slip or get stuck in one gear. If the vehicle gets locked in one gear while driving on the freeway, the consequences could be deadly.
Although the issue is under recall and Jeep pays for the repairs, transmission issues typically come with long repair times.
2. Engine Popping
Backfiring or popping sounds in the engine can come as a shock, especially if it’s never happened before. In many cases, backfiring sounds as loud as a gunshot could cause you to jerk the vehicle while driving. Some of the common culprits of backfiring in Wranglers include:
- Incorrect engine timing
- Failed spark plugs
- Running rich with too much fuel and not enough air
- Plug wires, if equipped
Backfiring happens under a variety of circumstances and repair costs vary based on the specific issue you’re having.
3. Leaking Door Seals
Door sealing should be a simple component that doesn’t fail early, but Wranglers are famous for having sealing issues. Leaking in the A-pillar is well-known among 1987 Jeep Wrangler issues, and it remains a concern for the other generations. Door leakage is especially common among 2002 Jeep Wrangler problems.
Poorly sealed doors create a damp environment that may cause unpleasant odors. If the issue gets bad enough, the moisture might damage electrical systems. Fortunately, door seals are easy to find and install. You can find Jeep weather stripping for this purpose for under $50 per door.
4. Differential Pinion Seal Leaks
The pinion seal helps keep fluid from leaking out of the differential. If the differential leaks fluid, it can fail, causing your Wrangler’s gears to seize and lock up the rear wheels while driving. The main symptom of low fluid in the differential is a whining noise while driving.
The average cost for a pinion seal replacement is between about $210 and $255, most of which is labor.
5. Transfer Case Leaks
Transfer cases are found in AWD and 4WD vehicles and split the transmission’s power between the front and rear wheels. As a self-contained component, it has its own fluid which commonly starts to leak in Wranglers. If your transfer case is leaking, it may be a simple seal failure. It could also mean there is a problem with the overall transfer case, like a bad bearing.
Although the average cost of the parts required is around $30, getting a transfer case oil seal replacement may cost between $150 and $190.
Shop 1997-2006 Wrangler Parts »
Common Across Multiple Jeep Wrangler Generations (1997-2017): Ignition Switch Issues
A Wrangler part to pay special attention to is the ignition switch. The majority of ignition switch complaints for second generation Wranglers are because of age, but you’ll find malfunctioning ignition switches in the third generation, too. The ignition switch is not the slot you push the key into — that’s the lock cylinder. The ignition switch is usually found behind the lock cylinder, and it has three central functions:
- Accessory power: This is the result of turning the key to the first position, which allows you to roll down the windows, turn on the radio and use other electrical accessories.
- Ignition: Moving the key to this position starts the ignition and the fuel pump, pressurizing fuel and ensuring the engine is ready to go when it turns over.
- Starter: Moving the key to this position cranks the starter.
When you have ignition switch issues, the symptoms don’t just affect the car starting. Here are several signs your Wrangler has a problem with the ignition switch.
1. Stalling While Driving
A clear and dangerous sign of ignition switch issues is stalling out while driving. This happens when the failing switch cuts off the fuel pump or stops power to the ignition. The engine can’t run until it picks that signal up again.
2. Starting Then Dying
In some cases there are no problems starting the vehicle, but it immediately dies. When this happens, the fuel pump or ignition is not getting power while the key is in the run position, but power is there when the starter is engaged.
3. Failing to Start
There is more than one way a bad ignition switch can stop your Wrangler from starting. In some cases, the starter cranks but the switch fails to turn on the fuel pump or ignition. This results in the engine turning over but not sparking. The other possibility is that the starter doesn’t turn over.
4. Lack of Power to Accessories
Some cases of a failing ignition switch don’t keep the car from starting or running. Instead, the vehicle may start and drive fine while none of the accessories work. A few vehicle parts don’t require a key in order to be safer, including:
- Brake lights
- Dome light
Other features like power windows, rear defrost, climate control and radio are tied to proper ignition switch function. If those accessories are off or acting erratically, you likely have an ignition switch issue.
5. Battery Draining
While the majority of ignition switch symptoms involve components not getting power, the opposite can also happen. Components may continue to receive power even when you turn the key to the off position. If you’re experiencing unexpected battery drainage, it may be due to ignition switch failure.
Although this problem causes extensive issues, it is relatively cheap to fix. Getting a full replacement typically costs between $115 and $140, with the majority of that cost covering labor. This is a fairly simple DIY fix for those familiar with electrical systems.
Common Issues With 1987-1995 Jeep Wranglers
The oldest generation of Wranglers is the most reliable of the bunch. There are still some issues to be aware of — even if most of them are related to age.
1. Exhaust Manifold Bolt Failure
The manifold is constantly shrinking and expanding over the course of a duty cycle. Over time, it may stretch further than it is able to retract. This can fracture the mounting stud and make the manifold permanently misshapen. This process also stretches the bolts, creating enough tension for them to fail.
Manifold bolts are cheap, but if the bolts aren’t replaced quickly or get stuck in the manifold, your Wrangler may need a new manifold. An exhaust manifold replacement averages between $950 and $1,100.
2. Body Damage
Wranglers are made for off-roading, which means older Jeeps are more likely to have body damage. Luckily, you don’t have to resign yourself to dented and damaged body parts and panels in your first generation Wrangler. Raybuck offers a wide selection of repair panels for 1987-1995 Wranglers so you can keep your Jeep in perfect shape.
3. Oil Leaks
Even with good maintenance, vehicles this old are susceptible to oil leaks. There are multiple systems within a Wrangler that can leak oil, so diagnosing the problem can be challenging. Each system has a different color of fluid that will mix with the leaking oil and can be used to pinpoint the source of the leak:
- Engine oil is amber when it’s new, but turns brown or black over time.
- Power steering fluid is the most ambiguous — it can be red, green, brown or transparent.
- Transmission fluid is red.
- Engine coolant can be transparent, red, orange or green.
Oil leakage is one of the more affordable fixes in older Wrangler generations. It can cost between $90 and $110 to get the leak diagnosed, and the repair cost varies depending on the leak source.
Shop 1987-1995 Wrangler Parts »
5 Tips for Buying a Used Jeep Wrangler
Despite potential issues with Jeep Wranglers, there are plenty of solid vehicles out there. Here are five tips to think about if you’re considering a used Wrangler.
1. Decide on Modifications
Modifications are common in Wranglers, and they can be a good option if you care about performance. However, a modified Wrangler will be more expensive than stock, and modifications may increase the chances of component failure due to poor installation. If you choose a modified Wrangler, it’s important to find out who completed the installation in case you need repairs related to the modification.
2. Check the Body
Before you get under the hood, check the body of the vehicle:
- Undercarriage: Always check the undercarriage first, as it’s the most visible indicator of how much life is left in the vehicle. It doesn’t matter if there are few miles on the transmission or the vehicle has a newer engine if the undercarriage is in poor condition.
- Outer panels: Significant denting can be a sign of hard use, and rusting might be a red flag. While rust on the undercarriage is a serious sign you should not buy the vehicle, it’s relatively easy to get replacement panelsand fix up the vehicle if the rust hasn’t spread to the frame.
- Tires: Inspecting tires for uneven wear patterns is important in spotting things like alignment problems or improper rotation. For example, if you see the front tires are more worn than the back, the front tires have been bearing too much of the engine weight and will need to be replaced earlier.
3. Ask About Mileage Type
Overall mileage is important, but you should also ask how the vehicle was driven. A Wrangler with low mileage might have been driven under severe off-road conditions, which could make another vehicle with high mileage and gentle use a better option.
4. Verify Mechanical History
If everything looks good under the hood, you should still ask for a full record of maintenance and repairs the vehicle has received. A spotty maintenance history could set you up for early part failure.
5. Always Test Drive
A test drive is a chance to uncover symptoms or issues with the vehicle. Take your test drive in the morning so you can hear how the engine sounds on startup. Listen for unexpected idling upon warm-up, stuttering during idling and loud ticking. During your drive, pay attention to how shifting feels and note any unstable handling, jerks or vibrations that could indicate a death wobble in the future.
The Raybuck Difference
No matter the age of your Jeep Wrangler, you can keep it looking like new with body parts and panels from Raybuck Auto Body Parts. We offer competitive pricing on 1987 to 2017 Jeep Wrangler body panels without compromising on quality. Our dependable aftermarket parts are the smart alternative to buying OEM parts, and we work hard to provide customer service you can count on.
If you’re interested in body parts and panels for your Jeep Wrangler, shop online, give us a call at 800-334-0230 or send us a message through our contact form today.
The Jeep Wrangler is one of the most popular cars in America, but not every Wrangler is a hit. Although it’s known for its ruggedness, in some years, Jeep dropped the ball and created a very problematic vehicle. Here are the three model years of Wranglers that you should avoid at all costs according to Car Complaints.
2007 Jeep Wrangler issues
The 2007 Wrangler was plagued by issues on multiple fronts. Not only were there 10 recalls that affected millions of Wranglers, but this model year had issues ranging from its steering to its fuel system.
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, or NHTSA, reported that steering problems were the most frequent issue that this model year of Wranglers faced. The NHTSA also reported a lot of airbag issues, and the airbags were also the source of one of the major recalls that Jeep had to do.
The so-called Death Wobble, which notoriously occurs on Jeeps, was a major complaint that was filed on Car Complaints. The average repair cost for the Death Wobble is about $880 according to Car Complaints, and this was the most common complaint made by users of the site.
Both users of Car Complaints and the NHTSA also reported a lot of engine issues. According to those who suffered a total engine failure, the repairs cost them about $4,400. Furthermore, the NHTSA also reported a lot of braking issues with this model year of the Wrangler.
The 2008 Jeep Wrangler failed to fix these issues
The 2008 Wrangler was plagued by similar issues as the 2007 Wrangler, including faulty airbags that caused a major recall. While the 2008 model has slightly fewer recalls than the 2007 models did with nine total, the 2008 model had far more entries on Car Complaints than the 2007 model did.
Once again, these issues affected the entire car, but the notorious Death Wobble was one of the bigger issues. The Death Wobble was the second most common issue according to Car Complaints, and repairs for it will cost about $800.
However, the worst issue for the 2008 model was a total failure of the TIPM, the Totally Integrated Power Module. Repairing the TIPM set the owners back about $960 and it was a very frequent problem.
One of the costlier issues with the 2008 model was a problem with its engine that caused excessive oil consumption. According to Car Complaints, it cost the average person about $5,050 to repair that.
Similar to the 2007 model, the NHTSA also reported a lot of steering and fuel system problems. The NHTSA also reported a lot of drivetrain issues with the 2008 model.
The 2012 Jeep Wrangler was voted the worst model year
One of the newer models, the 2012 Wrangler is actually the worst rated Wrangler overall according to Car Complaints. With nine recalls, it didn’t top out the list for most recalls but it was also involved in one of the largest recalls.
Similar to the older models, issues with the airbags were the main culprit. However, a new issue with this model’s airbags also caused another airbag-related recall that affected millions of cars.
Unlike the other models, the Death Wobble isn’t as common in the 2012 Wrangler. However, it still suffers from a lot of issues that the 2007 and 2008 models suffer from.
For example, its TIPM was also prone to failure, and repairing it costs an average of $1,300. Furthermore, a common engine problem forced many drivers to cough up $4,400 for a total replacement.
A lot of drivers also had heater issues, which required about $1,000 to fix. A lot of these issues were occurring with relatively new Wranglers too. And on top of that, the NHTSA reported a lot of drivetrain problems that affected very new cars.
It’s important to keep in mind that every vehicle is different and overall the Jeep Wrangler is one of the most popular and reliable cars on the road. Just make sure to do your research and know the signs of trouble when looking at older models.
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- 10-27-2003, 12:56 AM#1
I am new to the world of Jeeping and it's nice to be here .
I just got me a 1989 Jeep Wrangler 4X4, 6cyl, 5speed with 120,000 miles on it. It has the all Pro-Comp 4" lift, Extreme Alloy wheels and BFG big tires. It's in very well-kept condition by the previous owner. I really like it and I want to keep it for my toy.
I am also having problems with the steering and with the idling. I don't know if I can call them major or minor.
1st problem: There's a wide free-play on the steering and it's really a wide gap and when I am driving it over 30mph it starts to vibrates and it shakes. I changed the steering stabilizer shocks in which was worn-out and I checked the2 front shocks and they are okay. Is the wide free-play on the steering is making the vibrations and shaking? Is this has
something to do with the steering box?
2nd problem: It often dies and stalls when I slow down to make turns and when I slow down to make a stop or when I am at stop on a red light. I changed the fuel pump (the old one was leaking), fuel filter and the air filter. Is this a carburator problem or?
Please, I need you help and advice on this one as I really want to dive my Jeep.
- 10-27-2003, 01:18 AM#2
- Join Date
- Oct 2002
- Lincoln, NE
I don't have an answer for the steering, but try the nutter bypass on the carb. It should take care of those problems. Also make sure your ignition parts are in good shape, plugs wires, cap, rotor.
- 10-27-2003, 09:51 AM#3
- Join Date
- Jul 2002
- Charleston, SC
For the steering/shakes, I'd first get a tire balance/rotation and alignment. Also, check to see if the previous owner put on a dropped pitman arm with that lift. To verify, your tie rod should be parallel with your track bar. If it's not, you probably don't have the correct pitman arm and you need to get one that is dropped. You can find one here at the bottom http://www.hellcreeksuspensions.com/...cials_page.htm
If all the above is in order, then I'd look for play in your tie rod ends. Look to your steering box last. Good luck.
ps. I have Fuel Injection and know too little to comment on carbuerators.89 YJ 2.5L, 4\" Hell Creek Susp., .5\" homemade lift shackles, 33x10.50 on TJ Grizzly Alloys, Herculined tub, K&N, Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler, Russell extended stainless brake lines, & a Congo Cage w/ Yakima bars
- 10-27-2003, 11:54 AM#4
- Join Date
- Jun 2003
- Palatine, IL
I don't know too much about YJ's but if you have the Carter carb, try this:
My CJ7 would die at intersections and then deteriorated to every time I took my foot off the gas (during turns and such) last summer. I cleaned out these tubes as best I could and problem solved. Its a pretty common problem, thus the how-to section.
- 10-27-2003, 12:16 PM#5
- Join Date
- Oct 2003
- Southern California
"It often dies and stalls when I slow down to make turns and when I slow down to make a stop or when I am at stop on a red light. I changed the fuel pump (the old one was leaking), fuel filter and the air filter. Is this a carburator problem or?"
Do you have the Carter BBL carb? Does your Alternator gauge show < 12 volts when you run at low RPM (like at a light)?
I agree with jay79cj7 on drilling the idle tubes...and if you have about $60 you can also improve your distributor and spark by upgrading to TFI...http://jeepz.com/modules.php?op=modl...ile=engine_tfi.
Mongo\'85 CJ-7, All stock...ceptin the TFI ignition and 33\" tires and wheels.
\"I\'d rather be lucky than good\"
- 10-27-2003, 11:36 PMThread Starter#6
Thanks to all of you on your fast friendly advices and I really appreciates that :) . I am off tomorrow from work and I will have the whole 2 days off to fix my '89 YJ.
Thanks and Regards, Rod
- 10-29-2003, 06:54 PMThread Starter#7
I did the carb today and yes,,,, it's fixed and running well. Stalling and dyng engine is all gone
As for my steering problem I have to do later. What are the causes of the steering wheel wide gap or free-play? Is this the steering gear box or? How I wish that I could fix this by monday to drive it to work and to do the Halloween night on it.
Thanks again and Regards, Rod
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Jeep Wrangler Years to Avoid: Finding the Best Off-roader
Early Beginnings: The Civilian Jeep
The first vehicle to ever receive the Jeep name was the CJ, which stood for Civilian Jeep. The CJ came out right after the war and was around until 1986. In over 40 years, there were only 1.5 million CJs produced, making them exceptionally rare. Distinguishing features of the CJ included a separate body and frame, leaf springs on both front and rear rigid live axles, a tapering nose design with flared fenders, a fold-flat windshield, and of course it could be driven without doors. Almost all CJs came with part-time four-wheel-drive (4WD) systems with the choice of high and low gearing as well as the famous open bodies with removable hard or soft tops.
By 1987, the CJ had seen several different owners of the Jeep name. These names included Willys-Overland, Kaiser Jeep, AMC, and Chrysler who would take over in 1987. Also, through the years, there were several variations of the CJ. There were around 15 different models who wore the CJ badge. Not only did these vehicles resemble the old war Jeeps that we think of, but they also wore many other hats. Some were used by the Alaskan postal service, as an aircraft tug, by the Japanese regional forest office, and some even came equipped with a trench digger. It was in 1987 that the CJ-7 would be replaced by the first-ever Wrangler, the YJ.
First-generation YJ (1987-1995)
Almost immediately after the introduction of the YJ in 1987, Chrysler bought out AMC, the parent company of Jeep at the time. The YJ had several stark differences between it and its ancestor, the CJ. The first difference was that the acronym YJ didn’t stand for anything, unlike CJ which again stood for Civilian Jeep. Also, it was on-road focused as opposed to the CJ’s rugged off-road emphasis. The YJ was wider, had slightly less ground clearance, had anti-roll bars, and track-bar suspension. All these improvements were not only made to increase handling but also to make it harder to flip. However, Jeep owners believe the worst of these changes were the headlights. It had square headlights instead of round.
It came equipped with a 2.5L I4 engine mated to either a three-speed automatic or five-speed manual transmission. A 4.2L I6 was also offered until the 1991 model year when it would be replaced by a 4.0L I6. Surprisingly, both the 2.5L I4 and 4.2L I6 got the same gas mileage according to the EPA, with a combined mpg of 17. The YJ is most easily distinguished from the previous CJ-7 by its square headlights, larger windshield, grille, and wipers that rest on the windshield. Two options were offered on the YJ, being the Islander and the Renegade. While the Islander was mostly visual, the Renegade offered several performance upgrades to the YJ. It included the new 4.0L I6 engine, larger tires, a full-size spare, power steering, and several appearance upgrades.
First-generation: Years to Avoid & Better Alternatives
- Years to Avoid: (1987-1991)
- Better Years: (1992-1995)
As the YJ is an older vehicle there are several problems potential buyers need to look out for. Buyers should check for rust, body damage, proper seals on the doors and tops, water damage under the dash from a leaky windshield, bashes on the undercarriage from off-roading, exhaust damage, and the tops should be inspected for holes and other indicators of wear. Also, potential owners should ensure the 4WD system is in proper condition by shifting it in and out of 4WD to make sure it engages and disengages properly.
Since the YJ was never tested by the NHTSA or IIHS, there is no safety rating associated with it. However, there were some significant safety issues associated with the YJ. For instance, the “death wobble”. This wobble causes the vehicle to violently shake, usually around 60 mph. Also, it was recalled for a defective fuel pump that could catch on fire because it was routed across the exhaust manifold. Finally, due to seatbelt malfunctions and the lack of standard safety measures such as ABS, side airbags, and stability control we can assume the YJ is not very safe. Because the 1987-1991 YJ’s did not have their seatbelts anchored into the roll bar, they were not remarkably safe. Furthermore, the 4.2L I6 engine, introduced in 1991 offered the YJ more power.
Second-generation TJ (1997-2006)
Jeep decided not to release a Wrangler for the 1996 model year, waiting until 1997 to roll out the new TJ. Thankfully, Jeep enthusiasts could put down their pitchforks and return to the brand they loved, as the new Jeep had round headlights yet again. Jeep tried to make the TJ even more capable on the road than the previous Wrangler. They reduced the drag coefficient by .07, although no one would describe it as aerodynamic. Also, to make it more comfortable, it replaced the old leaf springs with a new coil-spring suspension. Interestingly, it kept the exact same engines that were offered on the TJ, the 2.5L I4 and the 4.0L I6.
It’s a valid argument that the TJ was just an updated YJ, rather than a completely new generation. However, the TJ came with some key refinements that need to be considered. These include a quadra-coil suspension, dual airbags, optional ABS, and of course those round headlights. Jeep made the driving experience more pleasant with reduced noise, vibration, and harshness (NVH). However, these improvements do not mean the second-generation Jeep was nothing more than a comfortable grocery-getter, it still very much rode like its military predecessor.
Second-generation: Years to Avoid & Better Alternatives
- Years to Avoid: (1997-2000)
- Better Years: (2001-2002 & 2005-2006)
- Best Years (2003-2004)
To put it simply, the second-generation Wrangler was not a safe vehicle. In the moderate overlap front test, it scored a mark of acceptable. However, in the side crash test, it was rated as marginal by the IIHS. The side crash test received a mark of poor for the injuries inflicted on the torso of the driver. Also, when the head restraints were tested from the 2001 model year on, they received the worst mark by the IIHS again with a score of poor. This is surprising because the TJ received a 100% increase in torsional stiffness over the YJ. Also, the frame stiffness increased by 15%. This can only lead us to the conclusion that although the TJ was unsafe, the YJ was much worse.
According to the NHTSA, common problems to look out for on the TJ are a defective fuel filler, rust, the “death wobble”, and a cracked manifold on the six-cylinder engine. The most expensive common problem listed on the NHTSA for the 1997-2000 model years was a cracked manifold on the 4.0L I6 engine. However, Jeep fixed this problem for the 2001 model year. In addition to fixing the manifold, Jeep also upgraded their ABS system, making the Wrangler safer. For the 2003 model year, Jeep dropped the three-speed automatic transmission for a four-speed automatic. The new transmission, coupled with the lack of reliability issues is why the 2003-2004 model years are the best. The most common problem on the later model TJs (2005-2006) was when filling fuel, the filler would not shut off the flow of gasoline causing spillage.
Wrangler yj problems jeep
Jeep Wrangler YJ Buyers Guide - Wronged Wrangler
Starting A Dynasty In 1986, AMC debuted a radical departure from the CJ. The company was going for a new look to accompany this new Jeep that did everything better than the old one. It was more comfortable on- and off-road, it flexed better (once you pulled the sway bar and track bars), and it had a quieter, more reliable, easier-to-use transfer case. The Wrangler got a better frame, wider springs, and better rust-proofing than the '86 CJ did. The soft top sealed better, the wipers actually worked well in snow, and the defroster defrosted more than two triangles of the windshield.
That said, it is almost as if AMC didn't want it to succeed. The company killed the long-storied "CJ" family lineage in favor of things like "YJ" and "Wrangler." It got rid of the iconic round headlights in favor of rectangles, the Jeep was lower to the ground, and in place of a simple steel dash was a plastic-covered thing that everyone was convinced was going to rattle and squeak within a year. Then Big Brother threw a monkey wrench into things with CAFE and emissions standards, which translated into a TBI-injected four-cylinder that, if something went wrong, was not easy to fix. The computer-controlled carburetor on the 4.2L engine (that featured more linear feet of vacuum line than many parts stores even have in stock )was a feeble attempt to meet government regulations.
To this day, the YJ Wrangler still carries a stigma, and it isn't as popular as the CJ that preceded it or the TJ that came after it. It is still a great Jeep and a good platform to start off with, and because most other people are looking at CJs or TJs, it often means you can score the Jeep that started the twenty-plus years of the Wrangler's reign as the best off-road production vehicle for half the price of a similar condition CJ or TJ. So follow along and we'll give you a crash course in what to look for in a YJ Wrangler.
The '87 Wrangler was an odd bird. It got steel half doors, but no locks on them. It got windshield-mounted mirrors that were different than the CJ's, but only lasted a year. It was the only year the top used snaps at the steel door, so unless you convert, you can't use tops from other years. The 4.2L was bulletproof, but it was bolted to the Peugot BA 10/5, which was a waste of good alloy. It was also saddled with a computer-controlled Carter carburetor, which many times did not run well when it initially left the factory. The 2.5L got a throttle-body injection system and was bolted to the AX-5 transmission. No matter which engine you opt for, you'll end up with the internal hydraulic slave cylinder. It can be problematic, and when it goes out, you need to pull the transmission and T-case to get to it. Then Jeep threw an NP207 into the mix, again the only year for that T-case to grace a Wrangler. Basically, the '87 YJ is only a bargain if you are planning on replacing the drivetrain anyway.
Things got a bit more uniform after that initial year was over. All the bodies were galvanized, most of the steel half doors got door locks, the soft tops were the same as the later years, and mirrors were moved to the doors for both the half-door and full-door Jeeps. Both the carbureted six-cylinder and the TBI four-cylinder received the NP231 T-case, which were around until the end of YJ production. During the '89 model year, as with the Cherokee, we started to see the AX-15 installed in order to get rid of the Peugot transmission.
The '91 model year saw the introduction of the High Output 4.0L engine, and gone were miles of vacuum line. This motor is reliable as an anvil, puts down decent power, and the fuel injection system has proven itself to be largely trouble-free, proving all the fears of the computer-controlled system unfounded. Meanwhile, the four-cylinder also benefitted from multi-port fuel injection and a resultant bump in the power department. An unfortunate side note to the '91 model year is the Renegade, which was basically a $5,000 tree-and-rock grabbing fiberglass fender and bumper package.
Crash standards for the '92 model year meant that the triangular roll cage that had carried over from the CJ-era was modified and squared-off so that the rear-seat passengers also received three-point seatbelts. Also gone was the center-dash analog clock; instead, a 4WD shift indicator light showed up to stay, and the cable-driven speedometer took a bow in favor of an electronic speedo. In 1993, more government involvement led to a high-mounted third brake light. Drivers who forgot what following distances were led to Jeep offering an optional ABS system on a Wrangler for the first time.
By the time 1994 rolled around, Chrysler finally addressed one of the problems that plagued both six- and four-cylinder YJ owners through the years: that dang hydraulic throwout bearing. Finally, the Wrangler got an external master/slave clutch setup like it should have had from the beginning. Another bright thing about the '94 model year is that due to staggeringly low sales, the Renegade made its last appearance in the options list.
Some will argue that 1995 was the last year for the YJ, some will argue 1996; we've never seen a titled '96. Though the TJ came out in late 1996, all were titled as '97 models. Regardless of splitting the year hair, the last YJs off the line are arguably the best. Many of them benefitted from the larger 297x size front axle U-joint. Some of the last YJs got the TJ-style rubber windshield rests instead of the U-shaped style that ran for 40-some years, and the later YJs off the line got what many refer to as heavy-duty cast aluminum tailgate hinges instead of the stamped steel hinges that were on YJs from the first. While less likely to bend, the aluminum hinges have been known to lock up in rusty climates and become very difficult to open. We have even heard of some of the very last YJs getting TJ-like rear bumpers, and while it is entirely possible thanks to both models sharing rear crossmember stampings, we haven't personally seen it.
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1989 Jeep Wrangler YJ Islander from North America - Comments
1995 Jeep YJ 4.0 liter 5 speed manual.
Things I have done to my Jeep.
Hit a 1 foot high tree stump, and bent my rims.
Drive-shaft broken after many months of vibration.
Unknown oil leakage after an incident with a pot hole.
Tough, rugged SUV.
Reliable (for me anyways)
Rough, rough ride.
Loose steering (try hitting a pothole at 55 mph in a Jeep).
Will probably start leaking oil after 100,000 miles.
With preventative maintenance, a Jeep should last for 200,000+ miles.
I have replaced the battery, water pump, and spark wires so far.
I have a 1994 4.0L Wrangler (119000). Love it, but I've fixed transmission, water pump, radiator, exhaust manifold, exhaust, journal bearings, re-honed the cylinders, soaked the head, grinded valves, brakes twice, shocks, and oil pump. My next project is steering. Jeep wants to shake itself apart if it hits a bump on the highway or if I go over 62 mph. Any suggestions?
I am the sorry (but somehow happy) owner of 1989 Jeep Wrangler YJ with a carburated 4.2 litre. I have owned for 2 years now and I can honestly say that all the vehicles I have owned put together, have had less time and money put into them than this jeep.
The things I have managed to fix are all brake lines, 2 drums, 4 wheel drive, master cylinder, valve cover gasket, intake manifold gasket, patched holes in the floor, the radio, temp gauge, rear main seal, wiring harness, heater, and more.
It still doesn't idle and the tranny jumps after about 45 minutes of driving. But just like many Jeep owners, I still love it, even though it empties my wallet.
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So I had to fuck myself with rubber dicks in the bathroom, it got to the point that two 4-centimeter in diameter were intermed. In my ass at the same time, I must say that I never got an orgasm from this action, but when in the ass the tension from the members, slightly touching dick orgasm and injection happened very brightly.
And I, having ripped off my ass, tried to turn one of the rubber members on the other side of the round washer with a diameter of 6-7. Cm and it easily passed the ass with an interesting sound smack, smack, and ISCHE I tried to tie both members with a thin rope, one of them did not had a puck, he was with a hole for attaching to panties, it turned out such a monster a member 35 cm long, though thin 3-4 cm in diameter and jerked off himself, but okay, why did he stuff all 35 cm up to the washer, that is, I passed the second sphincter quite freelyin general, I was probably an almost finished fag, just a loner, and my wife was not even going to join me (it's a shame, fucking), the couple got distracted a little.
The first two bullies tore off his wife's panties and crush her ass, pushing them apart and poking with dirty fingers into.