Ls swapped datsun 510

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GM LS1 Swap Wiring Harness for Datsun

Description

Looking for the best in aesthetics, weight savings and reliability out of your harness?  Our Pro Series harness completely replaces your old OEM harness so you can forget about those electrical gremlins.

This Wiring Specialties PRO Series harness was designed from the ground-up to exceed OEM specifications for wire quality, power/ground routing. With our optimized and ‘tucked’ approach the end result will be a clean and worry free installation with a guaranteed start up.

This harness is specifically engineered for a Classic Datsun 510, 240z, 260z, 280z, Roadster etc. with the GM LS1 Cable Throttle engine swap. It was developed in house on an actual LS1 engine to ensure a perfect fit to all engine connections.

Wiring Specialties offers a number of options for common performance upgrades for this product. Build your perfect harness by selecting from the available options to the right, and as always – if you have any questions, please reach out to us.

Note: LS2 and up engines, additional accessories and other injector types are subject to additional fees.


SUPPORTED ENGINES: Gen 3 Drive By Cable LS1/Vortec

  • Any F-Body LS1 from 1999-2002 Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am or Corvette
  • Any LS1 from 2004 Pontiac GTO
  • Any Truck/SUV LSx/Vortec engine from 1999-2004 Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, Escalade, etc.
  • Supports Engines with DRIVE BY CABLE THROTTLE ONLY

CHASSIS: Classic Datsun

  • Classic Datsun including 510, 240z, 260z, 280zx, Roadster
  • Our Universal PRO harness is a perfect solution for the engine, and comes with a self-contained pre-wired fuse/relay block for ignition, cooling fans and fuel pump.
  • You just have to hook up start signal, fuel pump wires and a few other wires for tach and speedo, alternator warning light etc.
  • Speedo and / or tach may need to have the signal adjusted using a frequency modulator (see Options to the right). You may have to run aftermarket gauges. Not compatible with mechanical cable driven speedometers.

PRO-SERIES HARNESS TECHNICAL SPECS

  • Plug and Play – simple and efficient
  • NO CORE HARNESS or additional wiring required
  • OEM wire colors used, where applicable
  • Fireproof fiberglass sleeving used in high-temp sections near the manifold & turbo (-40°C/-40°F to 450°C/ 845°F operating temperature)
  • Point-to-Point continuity tested on every wire
  • Constructed using exact OEM connectors and seals
  • Made with high temp TXL wire with adhesive shrink tubing (-40°C/-40°F to 125°C/ 257°F operating temperature)
  • Wrapped in lightweight nylon loom (-94°C/-137°F to 125°C/ 257°F operating temperature)
  • Includes a charge harness and improved grounds
  • Fully tested after production for an easy plug-and-play installation

PRO-SERIES HARNESS INCLUDES

  • Main Engine and Transmission one-piece tucked harness
  • Alternator charge cable built into the main harness
  • Knock sensor sub-harness connector
  • MAFS connector (3-pin or 5-pin)
  • MAP sensor connector
  • Intake Air Temp connector
  • TPS connector
  • 8x Injector connectors
  • Bank 1 and Bank 2 Coil interface connectors (coil harnesses are optional)
  • Oil Pressure gauge connector
  • Wiring for 2 PCM-controlled electric cooling fans
  • Cam sensor connector
  • Crank sensor connector
  • Bank 1 and Bank 2 FRONT Oxygen sensor connectors (High Temp shielding)
  • 1 x Ground ring terminal
  • Idle air connector
  • ECT sensor connector and cluster coolant temp switch connector
  • Reverse lights sensor connector
  • Speed sensor connector
  • Reverse Lockout connector
  • Skip Shift connector
  • LS1 Alternator connector
  • Starter signal/start connector
  • A/C Wiring is available as an option. Please note that adding A/C to an LS1 S13 is not easy and will require custom lines and sensor installation. Wiring Specialties will provide a wiring sub-harness needed for operating the A/C system ONLY.
  • OBD2 Communication connector
  • Printable install instructions with pictures
  • Turn Key ENGINE START Guarantee
  • Tech support for our customers 7 days a week 

FAQ & OTHER DETAILS

  • LS PCM Tachometer Adjustment – The LS1 PCM Startup Tune includes setup of the tachometer signal to work on your chassis. Signal conditioning is generally not required.
  • Alternator Charge Cable – This item ties the starter/battery directly to the Alternator output, which allows the improved power routing on our harness to eliminate the wire running from the alternator to the fusebox and/or battery while still charging the battery normally.
  • Grounding Kit – Our Kit ties a number if engine components to the body of the car and ensures that you will not have issues resulting from poor grounds. The Grounding Kit utilizes Ultra High temp fiberglass sleeving to allow installation under or around exhaust components. Very flexible mounting options allow you to connect the block, head, battery tray, alternator case and chassis to completely eliminate all grounding issues.
  • Speedo Signal Conditioning – The Dakota Digital SGI-5 unit for Speed can ‘condition’ the signal to compensate for cross-platform swaps. If the Option exists to ADD the unit on the harness page for your swap, then you need it for proper speedo operation. Please note that some transmissions (350z, BMW ZF and S15 Silvia for example) do not have a speed sensor and will require a non-harness based solution like a GPS speedo.
  • Plug-n-Play vs Universal – Plug-n-Play harnesses connect to your car’s underhood fuse box for power and to connectors under the dash for gauges etc. Universal harnesses do not need an underhood fusebox to connect to and the wiring for gauges and warning lights is provided as a ‘flying lead’ which are bare wires labeled with their function.
  • Right Hand Drive (RHD) Conversions – If you used ALL the stock LHD chassis connectors for your RHD swap, order the LHD version of the harness. If you used ALL the clip/swap RHD chassis connectors, order the RHD version of the harness. If you used a combination of LHD and RHD chassis connectors, please contact us as our harnesses will need modification.
  • Don’t See It? – If you have injectors, throttle body, coilpacks or any other item that you do not see on the Options offerings, please contact us. Chances are we can do it!
  • Battery Cables / Battery Relocation – The battery must be connected to the starter, so you need a battery cable from the positive battery terminal to the starter main power lug. Typically this positive battery cable also powers up the main under hood fusebox, which runs many of the non-engine items on your car like interior lights, dash power and headlights/taillights. Please make sure you have prepared for this as each install is different.

Wiring Harness Installation

Sours: https://www.sikky.com/product/datsun-ls1-harness/
I have to chime in here.

In the 90's I started on a V8 swap into my 2 door 510. I chose the Buick/Olds/Rover 215 CI (3.5 litre) All aluminum V8. It was a small lightweight V8. it made approx. 210 HP and it weighed approx. 50 pounds more then the L16. With the battery moved to the trunk, the difference in handling was still good.

Image

Overall it was a ok swap and the V8 had great torque. There were many. many things that had to be custom built to make it work including the front crossmember, the trans crossmember, the custom header that dumped out the front, the remote oil cooler, etc. Mechanically the car did get completed. I never got to the body of it. Over my years of owning it, the rust got the better of it and in 2005, I was at the east coast 510 meet and got a chance to drive a VG30 powered 510 and liked it so much better then the V8, that I decided to find a rust free car and build a VG30 (see my VG30 swap currently under construction here:
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_imag ... medium.jpg)

The car was fun to drive and it was qwik (where my handle came from) but I had never been totally happy with it. I decided that since I liked V8's in small Datsun cars, that a 240Z was better suited for a V8 transplant. I built an LS1 powered 240Z.

Image

Image

The 240Z engine bay is much better suited for the V8. There is much more room. And much more support from places like HybridZ.org and LS1 tech, etc.

After completing the LS1 240Z, I sold the V8 510 to a local 510 enthusiast and he still has it.

There was a 510 guy a while back that hacked up a 510 to try and do an LS1 swap. He gave up on it and ruined a good 510 in the process.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109641

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109495

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109493

And in this thread (http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.ph ... ht=LS1+510)he tells someone else considering the swap the following:

"I tried this last year, and it's not something i would recommend. The t56 is too long, the shifter sits almost right at your hip. You will have to completely reconstruct the firewall and transmission tunnel. Even custom headers will not clear the steering box, and you will have to convert it over to rack and pinion. Even setting the engine far back, there's not enough room to mount a fan/radiator. Also, the engine /trans trally cut into the floor space, leaving not a whole lot of footroom and you will also have to move the pedal assembly over and relocate the master cylinders. Also, you will need to have a different oil pan, i was going to go dry sump.
Besides that, you should be fine..."

----------------------------------------------------

With all that said, make up your own mind on if you want to do it. I would not recommend an LS1 into a 510 but Pete Brock did a ZZ3 into his 510 so if you have the skills, money and time, go for it. Just do it into a wagon or a 4 door. Don't trash another 2 door in the process. At least mock it up on a rusty parts car not a clean keeper. If you really have the money to do a proper LS1 swap, then buying a cheap shell for mock up will barely dent your budget. If you have to think if you can afford the donot shell, you should not even consider an LS1 (muchless any) engine swap.

Just Saying'
Enjoy The Ride!
David
ImageImage
Sours: http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?t=11707
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Datsun 510 with a LS6 V8

This Datsun 510 was built by Jared Snetsinger over two years at Lucky’s Speed Shop in Fremont, California. The 510 is powered by a 5.7 L LS6 V8 that makes 440 horsepower to the wheels through a Tremec TKO600 5-speed transmission and Ford 9-inch rear end with a Detroit TrueTrac LSD with 3.55 gears. It rides on a Eibach springs with Koni coilovers in front and custom 4-link rear suspension with Eibach springs with QA1 coilovers. Behind the Volk wheels are Corvette ZO6 calipers on Wilwood slotted rotors with 6-piston in front and 4-piston in back.

Datsun 510 with a LS6 V8

Datsun 510 with a LS6 V8

Datsun 510 with a LS6 V8

Datsun 510 with a LS6 V8

Datsun 510 with a LS6 V8

Datsun 510 with a LS6 V8

Datsun 510 with a LS6 V8

Datsun 510 with a LS6 V8

Datsun 510 with a LS6 V8

Datsun 510 with a LS6 V8

Datsun 510 with a LS6 V8

Full Specs:
Engine:

  • LS6 V8
  • 440 whp
  • factory LS6 ECU
  • MSD plug wires with custom stitched heat wrapping

Drivetrain:

  • Tremec TKO600 5-speed transmission
  • custom one-piece driveshaft
  • Moser M9 rear housing (Ford 9-inch)
  • Strange 3rd member with Detroit TruTrac LSD and 3.55 gears
  • Strange axles

Fuel:

  • aluminum fuel lines with XPR fittings
  • RCI fuel cell with custom baffling
  • Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump with filters
  • Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator

Cooling:

  • Griffin Performance custom radiator

Exhaust:

  • custom 304 stainless oval tube exhaust
  • H-pipe
  • custom headers
  • custom hangers
  • V-band clamps
  • stage 8 header bolts
  • side exit design

Brakes:

  • Corvette ZO6 brakes
  • 6-piston front
  • 4-piston rear
  • Wilwood slotted rotors
  • stainless brake lines with XRP fittings

Suspension:

  • 2:1 steering quickener with all stainless joints and steering D-shaft
  • custom steering rack (no power steering)
  • custom 4-link with watts link
  • Eibach springs with QA1 coilovers in rear
  • Eibach springs with Koni coilovers in front
  • knife cut sway bars Front and Rear of car
  • camber plates in front
  • strap steel welded to strut towers to add bracing and place for the cage to tie in
  • custom crossmember with adjustment

Interior:

  • custom stainless dash
  • Autometer Sport compact 2 gauges
  • push start on the dash with IGN & ACC switches with red indicator lights
  • Tilton peddle assambly
  • Tilton masters with custom throttle peddle
  • front and rear brake masters
  • MoMo Start bucket seats
  • Corbeau 4 point seat belts with cam lock system
  • MoMo Jet 2 steering wheel with Quick release
  • custom carbon door skins
  • carbon 1/4 skins
  • carbon package tray
  • custom head liner
  • stainless floor pans
  • custom stainless shifter bolted directly to the trans for a direct shift feeling
  • custom roll cage with Nascar door bars

Body:

  • custom firewall pushed back 4 inches to fit LSx under the stock grill and hood
  • frenched tail lights
  • tubbed rear
  • shaved rain gutters, rear pillar vents, marker lights, wipers, trunk lock, door handles
  • BRE front and rear carbon fender flares
  • BRE carbon front splitter with stainless adjustable splint adjusters
  • carbon front valence
  • APR carbon F1 mirrors
  • projector Headlights with black backgrounds & halos
  • black powder coated headlight trim rings & headlight trim & blacked grill
  • Lamborghini silver metallic gloss paint on body
  • Lamborghini silver metallic matte paint in engine bay

Wheels/Tires:

  • Volk CE28N custom wheels with custom offsets
  • 8.5 inches wide in front
  • 11 inches wide in rear

Source: eBay via BangShift

Related

Sours: https://engineswapdepot.com/?p=27317

Genka growls too. Ready to sail. Not. We did not agree so. Hold on, bro.

Datsun ls 510 swapped

I knew it, but he didn't even guess. At the end of May, we got together again on the weekend and I again found myself in the pit. I had to lie down for a long time, because I lost and there were a lot of points on my knuckles.

Turbo LS Datsun 510 Nearing Completion

No, I wanted Vika. I saw you enter the building after me, - he looked at me with a smirk and maybe even smiled with the corners. Of his lips, - I decided to play detective. He came so close to me and I was even scared of it. pushed me into this damn loose wall.

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