Golf Bag Holder Plans
This set of digital plans includes clear instructions, dimensions and graphics to walk you through building your own Golf Bag Stand. These plans are meant to be used in conjunction with the YouTube build videos.
These detailed plans are in imperial units. The following is included in the plan:
- The plan in a downloadable PDF format with 10 detailed pages
- Materials list
- Layout diagrams for all material cuts and dimensions
- Step by step 3D assembly diagrams
The project was designed and developed by April Wilkerson
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The entire plan is included in one PDF document.
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Golf bag stand
Cut 1x6x6 maple. Mitre 2 pieces on 45 degree angle @ 20 3/8" from outside corners (sides)and Mitre 2 pieces on 45 degree angle @ 29" form outside corners (front and Back).
*NOTE In all the next steps (approx 115 steps), lightly sand all edges as you are working along this project. especially after each cut. Remember this.
Brad Nail Border
Fire 2 brad nails in each corner (one on each side of corner) to temporarily secure base.
Cut 3/4" Maple plywood piece 18 7/8" X 27 1/2". Ensure good side is facing up for better presentation. Sand sides to fit base order.
Cut 4 pieces of 2x4 @ 4 3/8". Brad nail (2 in one side, 1 in the other) one 2x4 in each corner Flush with bottom of the base. This should have a gap at the top of 1 1/4" for base floor to be rested on.
Flip base right side up. Slide base floor in place, resting on 2x4s. There should be 1/2" gap on top (rail). Looking at base, choose best appearing long part of base as front, For better presentation. Slightly mark in pencil "Front so not to be confused later. Sand Base floor lightly.
From 3/4" plywood cut a piece 31 5/8" X 25 7/8" This will be back of Stand. Ensure when working that good side faces front.
Mark drill line.
On rough side bottom (25 7/8") of stand Backing, mark @ 13" for drilling.
Marking Base back.
From left hand side of back of base, measure and mark 14 3/8".
Lining up base and backing.
Rest backing (Good side facing front) on back of base. When pencil marks line up in back middle, ensure you can fit a 3/4" (use scrap 3/4" piece) piece on floor of base on each side perfectly. This is to allow for walls in future step.
Drill Base and backing
On 14 3/8" mark on back side of base, mark centre of base back. Using 5/16" drill bit, drill 3/4" deep at centre of pencil line on back of base.
Matching drill hole for backing
On matching line marked @ 13" on bottom of backing, Drill using 5/16" bit in centre of backing bottom at 3/4" deep.
Put 5/16" dowel piece with dab of glue in base hole. Should stick up 3/4" for backing.
Left hand side wall
Cut piece of 3/4" plywood @ 32 1/8" tall X 19 5/8" wide. Good side faces out. using Jig saw, Jig 2" across from top. Start rounding (Use large coffee can, it's what I used). after jigging rounded top of wall, radually jig down and slightly out.
Left hand side wall Con't
Free hand concave curve as best you can so that you are gradually nearing the foot of the wall.
Left hand side wall toe
Using same coffee can, draw and jig rounded toe of left hand side wall. as shown in photo.
Left hand side wall shape
As per photo, this is what you should have ended up with. It is not vital to have exactly like mine. If it is off a bit, it will still accommodate a golf bag.
On the heel of the left hand side wall, measure 3/4" in from corner and measure up 1/2". Jig out marking. This is to enable back of base border to fit. Once LHS wall is complete, lightly sand edges with oscillating orbital sander to get smooth finish. Or by hand.
Fitting LHS wall to backing
Put backing piece on previously placed doweling. Put LHS wall in place to ensure it fits nicely.
Marking dowel holes.
Measure from inside front left hand side base 5", 10" 15" towards back.
Marking LHS wall for doweling
Put LHS wall in place. WIth pencil, mark on inside wall matching dowel marks from step 19.
Marking centre of dowel lines
Measuring each mark on base from step 19, mark from inside side wall 3/8". This will be for middle of LHS wall dowel.
Mark drill bit
Mark 1/2" with tape on drill bit, so you'll know not to go further than 1/2" deep.
Drill dowel holes in LHS wall base
At markings on LHS base, drill 1/2" deep with 5/16" bit. This is holes for the 5/16" dowels.
Dowel holes in LHS wall
Turn LHS wall upside down so you're looking at dottom where they are marked. Place square on marking, mark with pencil across bottom on the 3 previous marks. Measure and mark (3/8") middle of wall sheet. Drill 1" deep into bottom of LHS wall for matching dowels.
Dowels LHS wall
With 5/16" dowels (3) dab glue on 1 end of dowel and place in each hole.
Hammering wall down
Once dowels are in place, dab glue on top of the 3 dowels. Put LHS wall in place matching holes on bottom of wall to dowels. Once fitting in, lightly hit with Rubber mallet to fit tight.
On outside LHS wall mark 3" down from top and 3/8" in from back. This is for assembly screw. Drill pilot hole using 5/32" drill bit on this mark.
With pilot hole drilled, With impact gun, screw 2" construction screw into top LHS wall, into back wall. Make sure back wall is flush with LHS wall before putting screw in. DO NOT Drill completely in yet.
Marking lower screw
Measuring and marking 3" up from bottom of LHS wall, and 3/8" in. this is to accommodate lower screw.
Mark LHS wall middle screw
Measure and mark from bottom of LHS wall 17" up and 3/8" in. This is for middle screw.
Right hand side wall
Cut a piece of 3/4" plywood 42 1/4" x 19 3/4". This will be known as right hand side wall or RHS wall. With good side facing up, measure in 12 1/2" from top right corner. Using jig saw and "coffee can" for round marking once you are finished round and are directly marking downward. Measure 14 1/2" down. From back of wall to downwards curve should measure 15 5/8 across upper part of RHS wall (So basically, the upper part of the wall is 15 5/8" wide. Using free hand or soda can draw and cut tight round concave curve.
RHS wall final curve
After completing small tight curve, once small circle is parallel to the ground immediately curve downwards using coffee can until you are drawing and cutting straight down. This bottom part of wall should be 19 3/4” wide. Sand edges.
On RHS wall, bottom heel, mark and jig 3/4" in and 1/2" up to accommodate for base border lip.
RHS wall complete
SO once complete, this is what you should have for RHS wall.
Marking dowel spots
From front inside right of base, mark 5", 10", 15" for dowel drilling
Cross mark those 5,10,15 markings at 3/8" in from inside right wall of base.
Drill dowel holes
Drill on markings with 5/16" bit ONLY 1/2" deep. Again, mark bit with tape to ensure you only go 1/2" deep.
Marking Under RHS wall
Flip RHS wall upside down. From toe of RHS wall mark lines 5", 10", 15" from toe. After lines are complete, measure and mark in 3/8" on each line so that the line is marked in middle of sheet.
Drill dowel holes
With the markings, drill with 5/16" bit 1" deep into bottom of RHS wall.
With a dab of glue on each dowel, place in each of the 3 holes.
Trace Middle wall
Take RHS wall (rough side facing up) and place on remaining piece of plywood (good side facing up). Trace out RHS wall. Jig out trace. This will be known as middle wall. WIth table saw or circular saw, evenly cut a 3/8" strip off of the back of the middle wall. This will make the two identical except there will be a underhang of the RHS wall by 3/8".
Matching up Middle and RHS walls
Once strip is cut, line them up best you can so that the are as one. Note, there will be the RHS wall 3/8" wider than the middle wall. Using 2 clamps, clamp them together on back side.
Sanding middle and RHS wall.
While both pieces are claped together at the back of the walls, Take the front part of the walls and lightly sand them with the oscillating orbital sander. Sand them so they match each other.
RHS wall installation
After sanding middle and RHS walls, seperate. Take RHS wall to Stand base where dowels are placed. Dab glue on each dowel and fit RHS wall on dowels. Use rubber mallet to home in snug.
Marking drill marks for RHS wall.
From top right hand corner of RHS wall, measure and mark down 3" and in 3/8" for screw. Then mark from bottom right hand corner up 3" and in 3/8". Then mark from bottom right hand side up 17" and 3/8" in.
Pilot drilling RHS wall holes
Using 5/32" drill bit, drill on markings from step 43. Line up back wall flush so you drill through RHS wall into back wall.
In top right hand corner of RHS wall, where you just pilot drilled, put 2x8 construction screw in but NOT ALL THE WAY. This is just temporary.
All the holes you pilot drilled now need to be counter drilled to so when you put screws in deep, you are able to put 3/8" wooden head plugs in to hide screw. So drill using a 3/8" drill bit 3/16" deep on each hole on either side of the RHS wall and LHS wall. Do the bottom 2 on each side first as you still have temp screw in place. Should be 6 counter screws in total.
Screw in walls
Once bottom 2 screws are secure in counter sink on both LHS and RHS walls, undo top screws on LHS and RHS walls. counter drill these two as well same as the other 4. Counter sink 2 top screws on respective sides to have all 3 counter sunk screws on LHS and RHS walls.
Cut shelves from 3/4" plywood. 2 shelves @ 18 1/4" x 10 7/16". Lightly sand 4the 4 edges of each.
Cut two 3/4" plywood pieces at 14 1/2" x 10 7/16" for short shelves. Lightly sand the 4 edges on each shelf.
1st Shelf peg marks
On inside of RHS wall you will be marking shelf pegs. Mark 7" from bottom of inside RHS wall. once in the back area and once in front portion. Once you have 2 marks, draw a straight parallel line from front to back inside wall.
2nd Shelf marks
Mark from bottom back of inside wall 14" high. Also mark 14" high from bottom at front location of inside wall. Once both marks are up, draw a parallel line across inside of RHS wall.
3rd Shelf marks
Mark from bottom back of inside wall 22" high. Also mark 22" high from bottom at front location of inside wall. Once both marks are up, draw a parallel line across inside of RHS wall.
Top shelf marks
Mark from bottom back of inside wall 29 3/4" high. Also mark 29 3/4" high from bottom at front location of inside wall. Once both marks are up, draw a parallel line across inside of RHS wall.
RHS wall markings
So now you have 4 parallel lines marked for shelves complete on secured RHS wall.
Marking back pegs
For all shelf markings in back of RHS wall, measure and mark 2" from Back wall. Mark 2" on 7", 14" 22" and 29 3/4" lines.
Marking 2 lower front pegs
For marking of front lower 2 pegs, measure and mark 17" from back on 7" and 14" lines. This mark should be approximately 2" from front of RHS wall.
Marking 2 upper front pegs
For top 2 shelves, measure and mark from back wall 13" on both 22" and 29 3/4" lines.
Drilling peg holes
Using 3/8" drill bit, drill ONLY 1/2" (mark with tape). When drilling on these marks, ensure the top of the bit is at the bottom part of each line. SO in theory, the bottom of the shelf will be on these lines.
Location of peg holes
So each hole will be located just under line marking. Complete all 8 holes @ 1/2" ONLY deep.
Measure and mark from bottom inside RHS wall Against back wall, 10 1/2".
Middle wall con't
Measure and mark along the inside front base 10 1/2" from bottom of RHS wall.
Homing Middle wall
Place Middle wall on base matching right side of wall with 10 1/2" line. Mark left side line so you know exactly where it is to be positioned.
Dowel hole marks
Measure and mark from front inside base 5", 10" and 15" for dowel holes.
Centre of Wall
On 5,10 and 15" marks where wall will go. Mark 3/8" in so dowel will be in centre of middle wall. Drill using 3/8" bit ONLY 1/2" down into base.
Middle wall dowels in place
Place 3 3/8" dowels in the holes with dab of glue
Dowel holes in wall
Flip middle wall upside down. Measure and mark from front 5", 10" and 15". Once marked in length, mark middle of Wall (3/8") in to be in centre of sheet. Drill all 3 holes 1" deep.
Temp middle wall place
Temporarily place middle wall home on dowels. Hammer in place if necessary with rubber mallet.
Middle wall lower pegs
Measure and mark 7" up from bottom in rear portion of wall. Measure 7" up from bottom at front portion of wall. Mark parallel line to marry them up.
14" pegs middle wall
Measure and mark 14" up from bottom in rear portion of wall. Measure 14" up from bottom at front portion of wall. Mark parallel line to marry them up.
22" pegs middle wall
Measure and mark 22" up from bottom in rear portion of wall. Measure 22" up from bottom at front portion of wall. Mark parallel line to marry them up.
29 3/4" pegs middle wall
Measure and mark 29 1/4" up from bottom in rear portion of wall. Measure 29 1/4" up from bottom at front portion of wall. Mark parallel line to marry them up.
Marking rear pegs middle wall
You may take off middle wall and set on work bench. On all 4 lines you marked from steps 72-75, mark 2" from back on these lines. (from what would be back wall).
Marking 2 front bottom pegs middle
For front 2 bottom pegs measure and mark along both 2 bottom lines @ 17"
Marking 2 upper pegs middle
Mark upper 2 pegs at 13" from back wall.
Drill pegs middle wall
With 3/8" drill bit, drill 1/2" deep holes. (Mark with tape)
This is the same as RHS wall. The top part of the bit is to be at the bottom portion of the line. Drill all 8 holes.
Homing middle wall
Put dabs of glue on dowels on base where middle wall goes. Secure middle wall down on dowels. Use rubber mallet to fit tight.
Secure Back to middle wall
Move to facing the back of the stand. Measure and mark from left side of stand 11 3/4"across and 3" down from top. Then 11 3/4" across at 15" down from top. Then from bottom of back baseboard measure and mark 3" up and 11 3/4" across. On these spots, pilot drill using 5/32" drill bit. These 3 holes should go through backing and directly into middle wall. Once this is complete, use 3/8" bit to counter sink holes 3/16" deep, (mark with tape). Secure screws tight into counter sunk holes.
Securing base plates
The base boards are only now held together temporarily with brad nails. Now we will secure them with screws. On each corner of front and back sides, measure and mark 1 1/2" down and 1/2" in from corner for pilot hole. You should have 4 marks 2 in front of stand, 2 in back of stand.
Pilot drilling front and back base
Drill these marks with 5/32" bit on left and right side both front and back of stand. (all 4 marks from step 81). Follow this step with counter drilling with 3/8" drill bit 1/4" deep on top of previously drilled holes. Secure with 2x8 construction screws with impact gun.
Side base secure
On both left hand and right hand sides, marking shall be the same. Measure and mark 1 1/2" up from bottom and 1/2" in from corner.
Counter drill these holes with 3/8" bit 1/4" deep.
Screw base plates
Now put in screws with impact gun. 4 in total.
Flat head plugs
Get 8 flat head plugs. 3/8" in size. Dab a bit of glue on one end of flat head. Place in 3/8" holes. Repeat 7 more times for remaining base holes.
Hammer flat heads
Using rubber mallet, lightly hammer in flat head pieces.
Sanding base and flat heads.
Now sand base corners. Sand the flat heads so they are flush with the base boards.
Put shelves in place to ensure fit. If they are too tight, use oscillating orbital sander (or belt sander) to evenly sand to fit.
Measure Bag side Back wall
Measure bag side space along back wall (In between the middle wall and LHS wall). It should be approx 14 1/2".
Cut bag rest piece
Cut small piece of plywood 14 5/8" x 3"
Here is what you will be attempting to replicate. Steps to follow.
Concave curve cut
From left side of small plywood piece just cut, mark a concave curve that runs about 4" in. I used a lid off of a garbage can. Then mark straight across. Mark curve from right side as well also bearing about 4". Once curves run a parallel line, draw that straight line to match them. So you will have item from step 92 marked. Jig this curve out using jig saw.
Measuring Bag rest
So your bag rest piece should be 14 5/8" long and have an even curve on inside part. Take this to the oscillating orbital sander and lightly sand out the edges and curved par to even it out if necessary.
Fitting bag rest
Place bag rest against back wall in between LHS wall and middle wall to ensure fit. If it is too tight, sand down each side lightly until the fit is perfect.
Measure and mark on left side close to LHS wall 3" down from top of back wall.
Measure and mark 3" down from top back wall, close to middle wall
With pencil (guided by a ruler or small torpedo level) draw a straight line connecting the 2 lines marked 3" down.
Measure and mark 4" in from LHS wall. Do same 4" from middle wall on line.
Drill Dowel holes
On these 2 crosses, drill ONLY 1/2" deep with 3/8" bit. (Use tape on bit to ensure only 1/2" depth)
Now you should have 2 leve; dowel holes on back wall.
Mark bag rest
Placing bag rest facing down just below holes. Match holes and pencil mark where holes will go on bag rest.
On bag rest where you just marked for dowels, using speed square, mark line across back of bag rest.
Mark 3/8" in from either side to reach middle of back bag rest.
Using 3/8" bit, drill dowel holes on markings 1" deep.
Once both holes are drilled, put small dab of glue in each dowel holes. With rubber mallet, tap in both 3/8" dowels. They should be sticking out 1/2" each.
Run a light line of carpenters glue along back with dowels to ensure strong hold.
Place bag rest
Carefully fit bag rest in place. Once in, give each side a couple of taps with rubber mallet to ensure connection.
Clamp bag rest
Tightly apply pressure with clamp to bag rest and let sit for a couple of hours until glue is firm.
Edge banding material
For edge banding, I'm using Bennet "Birch" natural wood 8' x 13/16" from Home depot.
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One of the local high school golf teams is having a fundraiser and asked if I would build something to throw into the auction. Well since it’s a golf team event, I thought it would be a safe bet that a lot of golf lovers would be there so I wanted to make something golf oriented. A friend suggested a golf bag organizer and I thought it would be perfect.
I used 3/4″ cabinet grade plywood for this build. Now, the project actually requires a whole sheet plus a little more. I had some scraps laying around from a previous project where I used the same wood so I used that instead of buying a second sheet. However, if you don’t have any scraps then you will need to purchase two sheets of plywood.
So the first thing I did was lay out some marks to set the parameter of my sides then sketched out a design for them. I wanted my organizer to be 19″ deep and 36 5/8″ tall. I gave you a few dimensions on the below photo if you would like to try and recreate the design of my sides.
To save space on the plywood, I first sketched out one side with a pencil then cut it out with a jigsaw. Then I flipped it over and upside down (so that it was in the orientation below) and used it to trace out the second side.Next I cut a footer that is 2 1/8″ tall and 44 3/8″ long, then put one pocket hole in each end then attached it to one side piece so that it’s flush with the front. Tip: Don’t attach the other end yet. Then I cut a bottom that is 17 1/2″ x 44 3/8″ and put in four pockets on each end, and three along the front (so I can attach it to the footer). On the top of the bottom piece I cut in two dados that are 3/8″ deep, so that I can later attach the center cubby section. I placed these 16″ in from each side.Note: This bottom is 11/16″ short of the back. So when you put it in place, it will be flush with the front but not the back. I did this so that when I add the back for the cubbies and the four braces later on, they will line up flush with the sides.
Next I attached it to the sides and the footer. I placed the unit on it’s side to make this part easier. Note:This bottom piece is flush with the top of the footer. After the sides were attached, I screwed down the three pockets in the front to connect it to the footer.After screwing down one side and the footer, I flipped it over and repeated on the other side.To add some additional support, I laid the unit on it’s face and cut three runners to attach to the underside of the bottom. I drilled three pocket holes on runner then glued and nailed them into place at 1′, 2′, and 3′. With the main body done I started with the center cubby section. I first made the pieces that will make up the sides by doing the same steps to make the main sides. I marked off the parameters then sketched in some curves. These are 35″ tall and 17 1/2″ wide. The top skinny portion is 11 5/8″ across, then from the bottom to top of the first curve is 13″. Sorry I didn’t take a photo of the piece by itself so I could write the dimension on it. I cut the first one out with a jigsaw then used it to trace the second.Once both were cut I cut three shelves. The shelves are all 11″ wide. The top two are 11 3/4″ deep, and the third is 17 5/8″ deep. I put in three pocket holes on each side of the smaller shelves and four on the larger one.Now, before I attached everything I stopped and applied some edge banding so that the edges would look nice when I stained everything at the end. I grabbed two rolls of iron on edge banding then applied it to all the edges of this center assembly and the main body. If you are painting your project, then you don’t have to worry about this step. However, if you are staining then I highly recommend doing it.
Once the edge banding was on, I took a box blade and trimmed off the excess. There is actually a special trimming tool for this if you are interested. It will make this step go a lot quicker.
With that done, I started attaching the shelves. The top shelf is placed at 6″ (from the top), the second at 14″, and the third at 26″. To make it easier to attached, I laid the side on it’s side and attached the shelves on one side. ….yeah I know, I just said side three times. ; ) Then I turned the unit upright and used a clamp to hold the other side in place while I screwed it down.With the center assembly finished, I spread some glue along the bottom of the cubby unit, and all along the dados, then slid it onto the bottom and used a mallet to help it along. I clamped it in place and let it dry for about an hour.When the glue was dry I cut a back piece that measured 33 1/8″ x 12 1/2″ then glued and nailed it in place to give the cubbies a back.Next I cut four supports that will go along the top and bottom of bag compartment. These are 3 1/8″ wide x 16″ long. I put in two pocket holes on each end then used screws to attach them in place.
And that is it for building! Last thing to do is put a finish on it.
I’m using General Finishes Gel Stain in the color Java for this build. I put on two coats using a foam brush and waiting 7 hours in between each coat. This finish is great and I definitely recommend it. Typically when I use pine plywood I use a wood conditioner before applying the stain because it is suppose to help stain more evenly and not as blotchy. Well this gel stain is a lot thicker than standard stain and one advantage is it creates a very even coloring. So I skipped the conditioner to see how it did, and I’m very happy with the results.
Then I also applied two coats of the General Finishes Topcoat Satin, letting the first coat dry overnight before applying the second.
And that’s it. : ) Pretty simple build!
I think this would make a great gift for Father’s day coming up, so if you are wanting to make a homemade/DIY gift for you dad and he is a golf lover, then go pick up some plywood and get started!
If you liked this project and want to stay up to date with what I’m building, then be sure to sign up for my email newsletter and you’ll get an email when I post something new. See you soon!
Well, it was our local production, and today the Mariinsky Theater was on tour. - Oh, the Muscovites have come. - Sasha blundered.
Bag homemade stand golf
Now Kristinka just howled in an orgasm, further inflaming the guys. And Ilya. Approaching us, he looked his mother in the face: - Mom. Can I. in the ass.DIY Golf Locker - How to Build - Woodworking
Of course, I suck them in while Oksana sucks the head of the penis. Looks like Roman regularly shaved his eggs, as they were smooth, and it was so nice to suck and lick them with his tongue. For about a minute, we oral pleasures the spouse, and when he was already close to eruption, Oksana, abruptly releasing her husband's penis from his mouth, pushes it completely into.
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But now it was easily removed, which I did and threw it straight into the water with a nutcase (fool no. !!!) and sat down crying next to me. Vika, cursing at me, began to catch him. Having pulled it out, squeezed it out and sat down next to me as best she could trying to calm me down.