Subaru Forester Serpentine Belt Replacement Guide
How to change the serpentine accessory belt on the FB25 2.5L boxer engine in a 2014 to 2018 Subaru Forester.
2017 Forester FB25 2.5L
Front of Boxer Engine
Owners of other Subaru vehicles such as the Outback, Impreza, Legacy, XV Crosstrek, WRX, BRZ, SVX, Tribeca, Exiga, Trezia, Levorg and Baja may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.
A few compatible replacement belts with their part numbers include the following: Subaru 80922 1210, Gates K060772, Continental Elite 4050347 and Dayco 5060770.
The tools needed to complete this procedure include a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet, a 14mm socket and a 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet.
10mm Bolt Removed
Pull Out Friction Fastener
Peg & Rubber Grommet
Remove the bolt by turning it counterclockwise with a 10mm socket and a 1/4" drive ratchet.
Set the bolt aside in a safe place.
The plastic cover is still held in place by a plastic peg or "spike" on the left (passenger) side that is inserted into a rubber grommet.
Pull up on the left side of the cover to release the peg from the grommet.
Set the plastic cover aside in a safe place.
Plastic Cover Removed
Alternator - Top Left
Study Belt Routing
Silver Idler Pulley
Tensioner - Below Alternator
Socket On Tensioner Pulley
The tensioner pulley is situated just below and to the right of the alternator.
Attach a 14mm socket to a 3/8" or a 1/2" drive ratchet.
Place the 14mm socket securely over the bolt head on the tensioner pulley.
Turn Ratchet Clockwise
Slip Old Belt Off Pulleys
Remove Belt From Pulleys
As you rotate the ratchet in the clockwise direction (towards the right or driver side), the tensioner assembly will swing up and towards the left to release the tension on the old belt.
Avoid placing your fingers anywhere that they could be pinched in between the belt and a pulley.
Hold the ratchet handle down with one hand and carefully slip the old belt off the tensioner or alternator pulleys.
Old Belt Removed
Inspect the old belt for any wear, chunks of missing rubber, fraying or exposed metal wires.
If the old belt is in relatively good condition, consider keeping it in your cargo area or garage as an emergency backup just in case the new belt fails prematurely.
Check to make sure that the tensioner and idler pulleys can be spun easily. If they don't spin easily or wobble, they should be replaced.
A replacement idler pulley is part number Subaru 23770 AA070.
A compatible replacement aftermarket tensioner pulley is part number Dayco 89505.
If the tensioner assembly seemed far too easy to rotate / release and the old belt appeared to be loose, consider replacing the entire tensioner assembly. The replacement OEM part numbers are Subaru 23769AA040 or Subaru 23769AA05A.
Lower In New Belt
Route New Belt On Pulleys
If you prefer to have the genuine OEM part, the part number is Subaru 80922 1210.
I created a very crude belt routing diagram to assist you in properly installing the new belt.
A good rule to remember is that the smooth part of the belt should be against the smooth pulleys and the ribbed side of the belt should be wrapped around the ribbed pulleys.
Lower the new belt down into the front of the engine bay.
I started by wrapping the ribbed side of the belt around the large ribbed crankshaft pulley, then up and over the smooth silver idler pulley, around the ribbed coolant pump pulley, up and over the ribbed A/C compressor, over to the left and around the ribbed alternator pulley and then pull the last loop towards the tensioner pulley.
Pull Towards Tensioner
Socket On Tensioner Pulley
Rotate Ratchet Clockwise
Place the 14mm socket over the bolt head on the tensioner pulley.
Rotate the ratchet down and to the right (driver) side in the clockwise direction to move the tensioner assembly up and to the left. Hold the ratchet in place with your right hand.
Carefully slip the last loop of the new belt over the tensioner pulley with your left hand.
Slowly release the tensioner to place tension on the new belt.
New Belt Installed
Line Up Plastic Cover
Push Peg In Grommet
Line up the black plastic cover and push it down into place.
Push on the left side of the cover to secure the plastic peg on the underside of the cover into the rubber grommet on the top of the engine.
Spin In 10mm Bolt
Tighten Bolt Clockwise
Start Engine - Test Belt
Try to avoid over tightening the bolt to prevent from cracking the plastic cover.
Start the engine and listen closely for any strange sounds.
If you hear an intermittent "chirp, chirp, chirp" noise, the tensioner assembly might be worn out and is unable to apply the correct tension on the new belt.
For more, please check out all of my 2014-2018 Subaru Forester DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.
Genuine Subaru Forester Drive Belt
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- 2001-2007 Subaru Forester | L, L.L.Bean, S, X, XS, XT | 2.5L H4, 2.5L H4 SOHC, 2.5L H4 Turbo
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- 2014-2017 Subaru Forester | 2.0XT Premium, 2.0XT Touring | 2.0L H4
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- 2014-2018 Subaru Forester | 2.5i, 2.5i Limited, 2.5i Premium, 2.5i Touring | 2.5L H4
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- 2001-2005 Subaru Forester | L, L.L.Bean, S, X, XS, XT | 2.5L H4, 2.5L H4 SOHC, 2.5L H4 Turbo
- 1998-1999 Subaru Forester | Base, L, S | 2.5L H4 DOHC, 2.5L H4 DOHC (New EVAPO), 2.5L H4 SOHC
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- 2007-2008 Subaru Forester | Forester Sports, L.L.Bean, X, XS, XT | 2.5L H4, 2.5L H4 Turbo
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- 2017-2018 Subaru Forester | 2.0XT Premium, 2.0XT Touring | 2.0L H4
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|Drive belt cover removed to show the power steering|
& alternator belt (left) and air conditioner belt (right)
|I don't believe drive belts are supposed to look quite like this...|
Getting the right replacement belt was harder than the replacement itself. My understanding from much consultation with the Internet tubes is that the generic aftermarket belts from auto parts stores don't quite fit right compared to the OEM ones, and unlike most parts debates across Subaru forums, almost everyone agrees on that point. I drive right past a Subaru dealership on the way to work, so figured I'd stop in and that their service department would have something like that in stock, but alas, they "were at the warehouse," already closed for the day--and come Monday, the same tech greeted me with the same line he'd given me a few days before: "Oh, I've got some bad news on those belts... they're at the warehouse." Yep, closed for the day again, too.
The delay pushed back the repair until after I got back from a trip to Vegas with my sister (that's a long story involving a skinny ginger git from Harry Potter and worthy of its own blog post). Facing a commute to the office with a seriously-deteriorated belt, I decided to tackle the job before going into work.
|Under the hood with the belt cover still in place|
|Bolts which need to be loosened to remove the power steering & alternator drive belt (red circles)|
Before you get too far and wonder why the belt doesn't seem to be getting any looser, here's something my service manual neglected to include: notice the third bolt (center right, above)? You have to loosen it as well so that the alternator can pivot as you adjust the long bolt on the left; a half turn or two is all it should take. I had to really lower the alternator to be able to get the old belt out and the new one in, running that long bolt nearly all the way out.
While you've got the power steering and alternator belt out of the way, you should go ahead and replace the air conditioner belt, too, as belts tend to show similar wear, and you can't get to the a/c belt without first removing the power steering one. The tensioner is similar to the one for the power steering and is located just to the left of the air conditioner compressor (the thing with the big pulley on the right of the image above).
Once the new belts are in place, just reverse the process you used to loosen the components and relieve the belt tension in the first place. The belts should be tightened until they displace about a quarter of an inch under firm pressure, something you can measure by putting a straightedge between the pulleys and then pushing the belt down with one finger while measuring the distance it moves down with a small ruler (easier said than done). Don't forget to tighten the bolt which allowed the alternator and compressor to pivot down.
I did the change-out in about 10 minutes before going to work one morning, so it should be easy for anyone to accomplish. No special tools are required--just a socket wrench--and the parts aren't particularly expensive (both belts together set me back around $25 from a local Subaru dealership). Replacing the belts eliminated my car's squeak, smoothed out the steering system, and should be good for another 90,000 miles or so.
I didnt mind. Already at the table I felt a pleasant heaviness pressing in my lower abdomen in anticipation of the night. We sat opposite. A pleasant, meaningless conversation slowly spread over the table.
Belt diagram forester subaru
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After some time, again some unknown force pushed him to do something ashamed and, left alone at home, he again went to the closet and.How To Replace Both Subaru Drive Belts
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