Chicken coops come in all shapes and sizes to help provide the space your poultry needs to live a healthy, productive life. What is important to consider when building your own coop is the room you are providing your chickens and the style of coop that fits your particular needs. We all want the best chicken coop for our flock, so why not build your own?
Smaller flocks often allow you to be a bit more flexible in your coop designs, and a popular option is the use of a chicken tractor – or mobile coop. If you have the space, you can easily build a small coop that you can wheel around from day to day to provide fresh ground for them to scratch on. The following portable chicken coop plans provide free inspiration, ideas, tips, and step-by-step instructions to make your very own.
Basic Components of a Portable Chicken Coop
If you have ever wondered how to put wheels on a chicken coop, this is the article for you. Although a portable chicken coop doesn’t need to have wheels, it does make it easier to move from one spot to another. The basic component of a chicken tractor, the common name for a mobile coop, includes a coop for roosting and laying, a run of some sort for exercise, and a rigid enough structure to move them with relative ease.
Setting the “tractor” on wheels or skids is a popular way to move the coop and run combo from one area to another every 24 to 48 hours. Generally, these structures are more compact in nature and are for 6 chickens or less on average, but if you are looking to provide space for 12 chickens or more – you definitely can alter plans to make something work.
Who a Portable Coop Is For
Chicken tractors are best for large yards and smaller flocks. This way you can provide a new area for your hens to forage in each day without putting too much stress on the landscape. Even if you do not have a large area, they can be a great compact alternative to a larger coop. Just be sure to provide an extra run so the chickens have a little more space for exercise.
The Ultimate Chicken DIY-er
Get the Book Here
For everything you need to know about DIY chicken coops, look no further. This book has 20 plans for you to build everything your backyard flock could need. From mobile chicken tractors to egg recipes. Complete with color photos and a shopping list for each plan. This could be a good place to start if you’re not too sure what kind of coop would fit your flock.
An A-frame design is a popular choice for those looking to make their chicken coop portable. Most of the weight lies near the bottom portion of the structure, making it easier to move. The space is designed efficiently by placing the run under the coop itself.
Another simple A-frame, this option allows you easy access to the roosting and nesting boxes for simple cleaning and egg collection. It’s a design that can be made to fit a wide variety of flock sizes and can also be easily connected to an additional run if needed.
Get It Here
Simple, sturdy, straightforward. This chicken tractor has everything your chickens need, and nothing else. It’s designed to house four to six chickens, is not too heavy, and the optional wheels make it easy to move around your yard.
Many portable coops do not sit flush to the ground in order to make them easier to move. These plans allow for 4 wheels so you can simply push it from one area to the next without having to lift or strain.
This classic A-frame idea has ALL the amenities, including a handle for lifting and pushing, durable wheels, and a large living area. This type of A-frame also works well in harsh weather as it is easy to cover the bottom areas for further protection and place food and water in the coop itself.
Although you may have to get creative in how you move this style of coop, it is a great option for when you are looking to move a coop seasonally to take advantage of dormant garden areas or fresh grass. A bonus of this practice is free fertilizer for next year’s garden!
This little coop looks like it would be right at home on a beachfront. With a porch-style run and cute raised living area, both handles and wheels make it easy to move from location to location. The great thing about DIY projects is you can make exactly what you want.
The Walk In
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If you’re looking for something that you move less frequently, these plans could be what you’re looking for. Because this is a fully DIY option you could easily add wheels to the bottom for more mobility. You could also leave the bottom open so the chickens can scratch on the ground. The original plans house eight hens, have a full-sized door for easy access, and offer plenty of natural light and ventilation with the open roof design.
Making the Rounds
This coop on wheels forgoes the traditional attached run (although it is easy to add one on) and can be moved to wherever you need it! Built as the perfect, compact mobile henhouse, it can be closed up each night for safety, brought into a shed or garage, and then wheeled back out each day.
Compact Hen House
Compact, upright, and perfect for a few hens, this design is made to minimize space while still allowing enough room for your chicken’s creature comforts. The great thing about chickens is that they roost in perches above the ground, so you can take advantage of vertical space.
PVC pipe is incredibly lightweight and easy to move. This traditional style coop may not be the best design for day-to-day movement, but it certainly is easy enough to move from time to time, season to season, or whenever you decide to give your chickens a new view.
The Chicken Ark
Get It Here
If you’re short on space and need a small coop to fit your flock, you’re in luck. This compact, lightweight chicken coop houses up to three hens. Small enough to fit in the bed of your pickup truck and mobile enough to move around your yard (it has wheels), these chicken coop plans are ideal for the small backyard chicken flock.
This mini cottage on wheels is exactly why you may want to embrace DIY chicken tractor plans. The amount of freedom you have to create exactly what you want is endless. Want your chickens to live the high life? You’ve got it! Looking to make a miniature version of your own home? Totally doable!
Basic, adorable, and easy to build, take a look at how simple this perfectly portable A-frame style coop is to build. This is a great design that is spacious and allows your flock room to grow over time, or add a larger run when needed.
On the Go
Take your chickens just about anywhere with these durable, large ties and strong, supportive frames. This coop is made to mimic a hutch and is completely enclosed with both an indoor and outdoor area. You can open an external door to allow them to forage and free-range before returning to the safety of the coop to rest and lay.
Get It Here
The plans for this chicken tractor come with all the usual bells and whistles; predator-proof, easy egg collection, and easy clean-up. But this one is specifically designed to be lightweight and easy to move so that you can move your flock to a new patch of grass every day. Or more often if you wish. This chicken tractor fits six to seven chickens.
An old trailer frame is the perfect option for a coop foundation. Why let it rust away or be trashed at a dump when you can repurpose it into your very own mobile chicken wagon? Versatile, this idea has a ton of potential for placement and run additions.
A House in the Woods
Build your chickens a little cabin in the woods that you have always dreamed of. Although these plans work with a more permanent location, it can easily be built on skids or a low trailer to move from one area to another. The height lends itself to adding an additional run as well.
On a bit of a budget and looking for some frugal chicken coop solutions? This article has all you need to start envisioning what you want with what you have. It also helps you plan out your budget to ensure you can get what you need.
Want your chickens to have a barn of their own, but don’t want the size and heft of the design? Take a look at these plans to get the look you desire without all the weight and work. This style is also an excellent option for simple customization, such as outside access to nesting boxes, windows, and decor.
PVC Run Framework
PVC is an excellent material for a lightweight, portable framework. It is durable, can withstand a wide variety of weather conditions, and is simple to piece together and take apart. You can make an easy run to attach to any sort of chicken coop you may have.
Want a unique and totally different look for your chickens to reside in? These instructions for a chicken barrow are easy to follow and only need some basic supplies and tools. It’s a budget-friendly idea and can fit well into any backyard flock.
Ready to Scale Up?
Get It Here
If your flock has outgrown your backyard, you might need to upgrade to a large coop. This book is considered by some to be the ultimate guide to scalable chicken tractor plans. If you’re interested in pasture-raised chickens and are thinking about scaling up to a commercial scale, then you should consider this book.
At the End of the Day
If you love the idea of having chickens, want to keep them safe, and would like to provide them room to roam, a portable chicken coop could be what you need. Also called a chicken tractor, these mobile coops help utilize the space you have in a yard for a happier, healthier flock.
The styles provided above should help you get started in planning your very own movable space. We’d love to see your ideas, and hear about which models you love! And, as always, please share!
Build This Predator-Proof, Portable Chicken Coop for Your Backyard
Now we have a new and improved incarnation of the portable chicken coop with your choice of shapes. This pen is framed with 1-inch Schedule 40 plastic pipe, and its walls are covered with 1-by-2-inch welded wire mesh. A removable panel of 2-by-4-inch welded wire mesh covers the bottom, which gives the chickens room to scratch but is easy to take off if you wish to set the coop on a garden bed and let the chickens till in their manure.
Like its portable predecessors, this coop-with-run is designed for three to four chickens. The birds shelter in an enclosure at one end made of the same durable yet easy-to-work corrugated plastic that the postal service uses in its mail tubs, and a cleverly fitted 5-gallon pail with a special cover serves as a nest box.
We worked with Joe Ramey of Circo Innovations in Grass Valley, Calif., (see contact information later in this article) to design two easy-to-build coops that anyone from age 9 to 90 can assemble using no special tools. Circo Innovations offers MOTHER EARTH NEWS readers specially priced kits with all of the fittings and pipes cut to size, as well as kits of just the needed fittings. Of course, if you’d like to use your own materials, you can see detailed diagrams on Circo’s website. (See the resources section later in this article for more information on the Circo kits and to find the corrugated plastic and the 5-gallon pail nest box.)
The pieces of the coop frames glue together easily, strongly and permanently. Their exteriors are clad in welded wire mesh, and you’ll need easy-to-use J-clip pliers to join the welded wire sections. To cinch the mesh to the plastic framing, we used 17-gauge smooth galvanized wire, which is easy to bend yet durable. Both coops have handles for easy moving.
We designed the first portable chicken coop using green pipes with the idea that urban and suburban folks may want to make their coop as unobtrusive and attractive as possible.
For this green coop, we simulated the shape of the classic hoop house or high tunnel. The shape of this coop saves a bit of money on the cost of the welded wire mesh because it uses a little less than the rectangular coop. We chose pre-bent plastic hoops, which made assembly even faster. In rainy or snowy climates, a tarp thrown over a coop of this shape will shelter the birds without puddles of water or snow weight distorting the wire.
This portable unit costs about $370 and weighs less than 50 pounds with all of the mesh and fittings included. It’s so light that one person can easily lift either end to shift it to new ground and fresh grass. At 39 1/2 inches wide and just under 9 feet long, it’s roomy for up to four birds, even with a third of it acting as an enclosed shelter. It sits neatly on a 4-by-10-foot raised garden bed, with a little room to spare so the chickens won’t throw all the dirt out of the bed. This coop is so secure that you don’t need to lock the birds in the shelter at night.
The completed rectangular coop kit costs around $300 — less than the hooped coop, because it uses less expensive white plastic pipe, but it requires slightly more welded wire mesh. It, too, is so light that anyone can move it easily, and is big enough for four birds. It will also sit on a 4-by-10-foot raised garden bed.
Both coops use the durable corrugated plastic to provide shelter for the chickens. This material is strong and flexible, simple to work with, and is easily cut with an X-Acto or utility knife. Those who wish for an unobtrusive coop can order it in green, but the less expensive white, translucent version provides some solar gain to warm the chickens in winter.
We used a cordless drill to punch holes in the plastic and wired these pieces of plastic to the frame.
These portable chicken coops are designed so that either end drops down for access to feeders and waterers, and to allow your chickens out while you’re there to supervise (your presence should deter predators). The chickens will return to their coop naturally at dusk — just be sure to close and latch the chicken door at nightfall if they’ve been ranging in the yard.
MOTHER EARTH NEWS recommends three excellent new books about raising chickens, whether you’re experienced or a complete novice.
Robert and Hannah Litt’sA Chicken in Every Yard: The Urban Farm Store's Guide to Chicken Keeping starts with a variety of reasons to keep chickens. The book then takes the reader through every step of keeping backyard birds, from choosing a breed to using the eggs, as well as some philosophical asides, such as, “Should I take a $5 chicken to the vet?” The book’s style is easy and comfortable, with lots of humor tucked in. The Litts are the founders of the Urban Farm Store in Portland, Ore., and have loads of experience helping beginners raise their first birds.
Patricia Foreman’s City Chicks: Keeping Micro-flocks of Laying Hens as Garden Helpers, Compost Makers, Bio-recyclers and Local Food Suppliers is, as its title suggests, aimed at city dwellers who want to keep a few hens. Beyond the usual chicken husbandry and health information, the book also includes great tips on how to put your flock to work to build soil fertility, plus information on how to draft and pass local laws to permit laying hens. It’s crammed with information, and every poultry keeper will refer to it again and again.
Harvey Ussery’s The Small-Scale Poultry Flock: An All-Natural Approach to Raising Chickens and Other Fowl for Home and Market Growers may seem oriented to larger flocks than most backyard bird keepers maintain, but the wealth of information in the book applies to anyone who keeps even one chicken. Ussery discusses how to grow your own poultry feed, and how to use chickens in the garden to build soil health. Widely regarded as an expert in small-scale chicken breeding and raising, plus how to put chickens to work, Ussery also discusses ducks, geese and other kinds of poultry within the book. His discussion of worm composting bins beneath the aisles in his hoophouses (which serve as winter chicken houses) is also fascinating.
Resources for Building Your Portable Chicken Coop
Circo Innovations offers three styles of coop frame kits to MOTHER EARTH NEWS readers (see list below). You will need to provide the welded wire mesh and other materials. Each coop needs about 31 linear feet of 36-inch-wide, 1-by-2-inch welded wire mesh to cover the sides and top of the coop, as well as a 10-foot piece of 48-inch-wide, 2-by-4-inch welded wire mesh for the bottom. The wire mesh, corrugated plastic, J-clips and a pair of J-clip pliers add about $115 to the cost of each frame kit (and you will have lots of wire mesh and plastic leftover).
- Kit 1: A full kit of pre-cut pipe and fittings for the green domed portable coop; $256.16, plus shipping
- Kit 2: A full kit of pre-cut pipes and fittings for the white rectangular portable coop; $185.60, plus shipping
- Kit 3: A kit of just the fittings for the white rectangular coop; $65.28, plus shipping
Circo offers a discount of 30 percent on orders of four kits or more. For more information, call Circo at 877-762-7782.
Growers Supply sells the 4-millimeter twin-wall corrugated plastic we used to form the coop’s shelter. In white, it comes in 8-foot-wide rolls and costs about $10 per foot. Other colors are available but cost more. Growers Supply also offers 4-by-8-foot sheets of 8-millimeter material, which is slightly less flexible.
Fowl Stuff is a Michigan company that has designed an injection-molded cover that adapts 3- and 5-gallon pails for use as nesting boxes. The company offers covers alone ($12 each), nest boxes with pail and cover ($20) and other items through various retailers listed on its website. You can also order directly through the website.
Robin Mather is a senior associate editor at MOTHER EARTH NEWS and the author of The Feast Nearby, a collection of essays and recipes from her year of eating locally on $40 a week. In her spare time, she is a hand-spinner, knitter, weaver, homebrewer, cheese maker and avid cook who cures her own bacon. Find her on Twitter, Facebook or Google+.
Originally Published: April/May 2012
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Finally, a Mobile Chicken Coop One Person Can (Easily) Move
Meet the “ChickShaw”: A mobile chicken house that one person can move (a lot) of chickens.
Since the 19th century people have been moving people with rickshaws.
By centering most of the “shaws” weight on the center of gravity of the two wheels, and pulling the front, it’s easy to move incredible amounts of weight.
Thank you Asia!
Because now, I’m taking that old technology to start moving (and housing) my chickens.
… and I’m giving away the downloadable (printable) PLANS HERE. UPDATE: I’ve come out with a smaller ChickShaw MiniMe (for 24 Birds or less)
Chances are, your chickens are WAY overdue for a move.
Most folks keep their chickens in a “classic” coop and run, but that just so happens to be one of the most labor intensive, and unsanitary methods for raising chickens.
It’s now possible to move your chickens regularly with electric poultry net and my ChickShaw, even if you have a lot of birds (up to 60).
Before now, mobile chicken housing was limited to “tiny houses” chicken tractors and mobile home sized coops.
Now, the homesteader can move his flock of 40-60 all by himself (or herself) over all kinds of terrain.
And, it’s not just light weight.
I’ve built in several design features that will make everyone’s life a bit easier.
Perches are built into the floor to save height and weight making it easy to move while keeping costs low.
1” floor mesh keep the predators out and the night manures dropping directly to the earth below automatically fertilizing (aka you don’t have to do any shoveling)
The door is also the ramp, making it super easy shut them up at night and let them out in the morning.
The roof is on hinges for those time you need to access chickens, or place something inside (like a dust box).
The handle for pulling the “Shaw” is easily removed for easy access and can be use to prop up the roof lid.
Large, non-pneumatic wheels can’t go flat and will traverse crazy terrain. Plus, they’re tall enough so that the chickens can get under the house for shade and aerial predator protection during the day.
Uses my self cleaning, “pre-made”, milk crate, nesting box design that you can access individually from the outside. No more going in the coop for eggs. And if you forget your egg basket or need to transfer a broody hen. Just use the milk crate!
If you need more info on how to manage chickens in a mobile paddock system, check out Rich Soil’s article, “Raising Chickens 2.0 – No More Coop and Run”.
NOTE: The plans below are for my original ChickShaw. I’ve since created an updated ChickShaw 2.0 with improvements and ChickShaw MiniMe (for 24 Birds or less).
- Nineteen, 2x4x8s, Cedar or Untreated
- Two 1x4x8s, Cedar or Untreated
- One piece of ¾” plywood (enough for a 24”X24” piece)
- At least 16” of 1X2 or very similar.
Note: Cedar is naturally weather-resistant and non-toxic, but it’s expensive. You can save money by purchasing NON pressure-treated lumber, but you’ll need to paint the wood or apply a sealer, being sure to use an eco-friendly (non toxic) source.
(Note: These are the tools I actually use and truly suggest. You may like to know that some of the links are affiliate links, which means I’ll get a commission if you purchase)
- Seven pieces Tuftex SeaCoaster PVC Roof Panel, 8’X2.17’ (for the roofing and siding).
- Two 9” X ¾” bolts (an inch or so longer wouldn’t hurt), to serve as axles for the wheels. I found mine at a local bolt and nut shop (the local hardware store didn’t carry them this long). Here I found some online that should work great.
- Two Marathon Flat Free 26X2.125” tires at Northern Tool.
- Two ¾” rigid couplings (for spacing the wheel from the frame).
- Two ¾”X2” washers (for keeping the wheels from rubbing the frame).
- Two Angle clips 1-7/16” X 2” (for strengthening the front legs).
- Twenty-four Framing Angles 1.5” X 1.625” X 1.25” (for reinforcing our framing).
- Four Mending Plates, 5” X 3⅛” (for adding strength to your wheel frames).
- Four Joist Hangers, 2” X 6-8 (for mounting your wheel frame to the Chickshaw).
- Three milk crates. I somehow have a bunch of these, so I just used what I had. If you don’t have any, you might be able to get some used at a grocery store or something, but if not, here’s a link to some on Amazon.
- One 6’8”-long pole (ideally 1 ¼” diameter, give or take) for lifting and pushing/pulling the Chickshaw. You could go slightly longer (probably 7’) and slightly thicker (but no more than 2” thick).
- At least 9’3” of ½-inch hardware cloth for the side walls.
- At least 18’ of 1” hardware cloth for the “flooring”.
- Four, 3.5” door hinges for the door and the roof.
- Five Lb of 8X3 deck screws (that’s 3” deck screws).
- Five Lb of 6X1⅝” deck screws (that’s 1 and ⅝” long)
- One Lb box of ¾” Poultry Net Staples for hammering in your hardware cloth.
- Four, ½” metal pipe straps for attaching your wheel axles (bolts) to the frame.
- 100-200 roofing screws, 1½, #10’s. (I’d get at least 100, but maybe 200. I’d rather have some leftover than not enough).
- Two, 3½” Safety Hasps for locking down the roof.
(Note: These are the tools I actually use and truly suggest. You may like to know that some of the links are affiliate links)
- Drill and appropriate drill bits. I used phillips screws, so I’ll use a phillips head drill bit.
- Measuring tape
- ¼” Bit Tip Holder drill bit for screwing in your roofing screws.
- Sawzall, hand held PVC saw or other hand held saw that can cut plastic.
- Tin Snips for cutting your plastic roofing.
- 1½” Hole Saw for drilling a hole into the arms for your “pulling poll”. I went ahead and got a four piece set, because these hole saws seem really handy.
- 6” long, Screw Driver Bit for drilling in your hard to reach Safety Hasps.
- Cut two 2X4’s @ 6’ each (two 24” pieces leftover)
- Cut the 24” leftover pieces into eight 6” pieces
- Cut two 2X4’s @ 4’¾” (leftover pieces are 47’¼”)
- Cut one 47’¼” leftover piece to 11”
- Cut the other 47’¼” leftover piece into one 28”, and two 8” pieces
- Cut two 2X4’s @ 5’9” (Leftover pieces are 27”)
- Cut the two leftover 27” pieces into two 24” pieces
- Cut two 2X4’s @ 5’6” (the two leftover pieces are 30”)
- Cut one of the 30” pieces into 28”
- Cut the other 30” piece into two 8” pieces
- Rip nine 2X4’s in half to make sixteen, 8’ 2X2’s
- Cut five 2X2’s @ 6’ (Leftover pieces are 24”)
- Cut one of the 24” leftover pieces into four 6” pieces
- Cut another one of the extra 24” pieces into two 9½” pieces and scrap the leftovers.
- Cut two 2X2’s @ 6’1” (Leftover pieces are 23”)
- Cut the two 23” leftover pieces into 22½” pieces
- Cut two 2X2’s into 5’9” pieces (leftover pieces are 27”)
- Save the two 27” leftover pieces for this project
- Cut two 2X2’s @ 6’, and scrap the two leftover pieces
- Cut one 2X2’s @ 5’5” (leftover piece is 31”)
- Cut the leftover 31” piece into two 15” pieces
- Cut seven 2X2’s @ 6’5” (leftover pieces are 19”)
- Cut two of the 19” leftover pieces to 13½”, and scrap the leftovers.
- Cut two of the 19” leftover pieces to 13 5/16”, and scrap the leftovers.
- Cut two of the 19” leftover pieces to 15”
- Scrap the remaining three, 19” leftover pieces
- Cut one 2X2 @ 30 7/16” and 40”,and scrap the leftovers
- Cut one 2X2 @ 43” and two @ 25½” ,and scrap the leftovers
- Cut one 2X2 @ 30 7/16”, and three @ 14”, and scrap the leftovers
- Cut one 1X4 @ 6’ (leftover piece is 24”)
- Cut the 24” leftover piece to 19½” and scrap the leftovers
- Cut one 1X4 @ 19½”, 36¼” (leftover piece is 40½”)
- Strip the 40½” leftover piece making two, 1X2 strips
- Cut one 1X2 into two, 8” pieces then scrap the leftovers
- Cut one panel into two 31” pieces and one, 18¾”
- Cut one panel into two 31” pieces and one 29 3/16” piece.
- Cut a 29 3/16” piece from another panel and scrap the leftovers.
- Cut four panels at 80” and scrap the leftovers.
- Let’s get started with the fun part. Put together two 6’ 2X4’s and two 5’9” 2X4’s to form a 6’ square. Be sure to have your two 5’9” pieces on the inside.
- Take your four 8” 2X4’s and cut @ 45 degree angles to form your corner braces.
- Cut your 1” wire mesh into three 6’ lengths and attach to the top of the frame with small u-nails.
- Attach your five 6’ 2X2 perches every foot across the platform. Just a little fun fact to clear up any confusion you may or may not have. 2X2’s and 2X4’s aren’t really that. A 2X4 is really 1¾” X 3½”, so a 2X2 is different, too. Don’t worry about it. Everything works out in the end. For the sake of simplicity, I’ll continue to “lie” by saying we’re using 2X2’s and 2X4’s. And yes, 1X4’s are a lie too. Forgiveness.
- Flip the platform over and attach your mesh onto the bottom of the perches for added security. Now, flip it back to its original position.
- Screw in your two front posts (2’X4’X24”) using some of your framing angles. For these corner posts, I used two framing angles on the bottom of each post. At this point, It doesn’t matter which side you choose to be the front and back. I set it up so my perches are running front to back as opposed to running sideways. For reference, the front side in this picture is the side closest to the creek. It’s important to position your 2X4’s as seen in the picture. I have the 2X4’s wide side facing the front and back “walls”, if that makes any sense. Hey, just copy the photo and you’ll be golden.
- Screw in your two back posts (2’X4’X28”), wide side facing “out” and secure with framing angles.
Ok, this is fun…I hope. Well, I bet you’re having more fun than I had when I built this from scratch… or maybe you’re saying, “these instructions are crazy”. Hey, I welcome all feedback, even if it’s derogatory.
- Ok, let’s put the top frame on. This time, use 2X2’s. Take 6’ pieces and use them for your sides and, you guessed it, two 5’9” pieces for your front rails. Rails? I guess that’s what you call that. Anyway, look at the picture, it’s shouting a thousand words I don’t know how to say.
- Here’s another tricky part. This pic is deceptively simple, I warn you. But I know we can do this.
Do you see the four vertical posts along the sides, in the photo below? Not the corner posts, but the side posts. The ones in the front (towards the creek) are your 2X2X25½”.
Here’s the tricky part. Since your top side rail is sloping, you’re going to have to cut an angle in the top of these posts. I have no freakin idea what that angle is, so I went ahead and set the post up (it’s a little long) 2’ from the end, then marked the angle with pencil like so:
- Now, cut that angle, and attach the bottom of the post with one frame angle and attach the top by screwing through the top “rail” into your post. Repeat with the other side.
- Repeat steps 9 and 10 for the two vertical posts towards the back. These are your 2X2X27”.
Front Angle Braces
- If you thought our last angle cuts were crazy, we’re about to go “bat crap crazy”. See the two vertical posts in the middle? That’s easy. It’s the angle bracing posts that are a little tricky to explain. But you’re smart.
Let’s start with the easy. Take your two 2X2X22½” and insert them into the front wall, two feet from either side. Notice how they so conveniently rest on top of the perches. Screw the bottom in with a framing angle and screw the top in by screwing through the top rail.
- For those angel braces, go ahead and cut two 2X2X30 7/16 ”. Yes, that’s 30 inches and 7/16” combined.
Hold your braces up, one at a time, and mark your angles and cut accordingly. If you mess up a bit, it’s not that critical. In fact, I was tempted to just go back and measure how much it would be to run a straight piece in (no angles) but the angles look good.
- Ok, take a deep breath. No more angle cuts. These next three pieces are easy.
See that horizontal piece going across the middle of the back? That’s your 5’5” piece. Go ahead and screw it in. I would use a couple of framing angles, one on either side, to screw this piece into your 2X4 corner post. Oh… I almost forgot. Place the horizontal board 15¼” up from the bottom framing. Just to make sure I communicate this right. Measure 15¼” from the top of the bottom 2X4, and make a mark at 15¼” on your two back corner 2X4’s. Now, you’ll want to place your 5’5” horizontal 2X2 just above the line (do not center your horizontal board on this line, but rather put it on top). Got it? Good.
- Take your two 2X2X13-5/16 pieces and screw them in 2’ from either side. See the photo. Doesn’t that look nice? Use framing angles to secure the bottom and attach the top by drilling through the horizontal 5’5” piece down into the posts. I didn’t use the framing angles or drill in from the top in the picture, but If I had to do it over again, that’s exactly what I’d do.
Side Angle Braces
- By this point, I’d given up on all those crazy angle cuts. For these diagonal braces I just made straight cuts.. and these are on the inside, so it doesn’t look bad.
Take your two 6’1” 2X2’s and set them along the inside wall, like the picture shows. Notice how I screwed the top end into the top side rail, and how “toenailed” the bottom end into the vertical front corner post. (And if you’re wondering what a toenail is, a toenail is hammering a nail or screwing a screw at an angle into a board.)
Attaching Your ½” Hardware Cloth
- Now, get ready to put on our ½” hardware cloth. We’ll only need it for the two sides on the front “wall” and the two front sides on the side “wall”.
Cut two 27½” pieces and staple nail them into the front two side on the front wall.
Now, cut two 28” pieces and staple nail them into the front two sides on the side walls.
Nesting Area Base
- Are we having fun? Well, if not take a break for some tea. My permaculture teacher, Geoff Lawton says, “if it stops being fun, take a break for some tea and adjust the plan as needed”. Ok, if you don’t want tea, at least take a deep breath, stretch, whatever.
- Ok, welcome back. Look at the picture below. That’s the base of the nest box. Simple right? Right.
Go ahead and put your three 2X2’s together. This is easily done by screwing your two 15” 2X2’s onto either side of your 2X2X40”.
- Now, screw in your two 1X4X19½” into the bottom. I did this by flipping it over. Notice how the 2X2 framing rests on the side of the 1X4’s and that the bottom of the 2X2 framing sticks out 1½”. That’s so we can mount this to our main frame later on.
- Then, screw your long, 1X4X36½” into the bottom of your 2X2 cross piece.
Swiveling Landing Bar
- I think it’s best to go ahead and put (what we call) your landing bar together. You see, if you don’t have a landing bar in the front of your nest boxes, it’s hard for your chickens to fly into their nests. They can be a bit clumsy.
Now that I’m talking about characteristics of a chicken, I should mention that they’re also rather sloppy (aka poop in their nest box if you let them). So let’s make this landing bar swivel. That way, if our chickens start perching in their nest boxes, we can lift the landing bar (in the afternoon after they’ve laid all their eggs) to be a nesting box blocker. Then, they won’t perch in the nesting box and poop all over the place.
- Anway, attach your two 1X2X8” onto the sides of your 2X2X43”. Make sure you put at least two screws into each side, otherwise the landing bar will twist.
- Attach the landing bar to your nest box frame. BUT THIS TIME, only put one screw in either side, and don’t screw them in tight. These screws will serve as pivot points. Just look at the picture:
Mounting the Nesting Area Base to the Main Frame
- Go ahead and place your nesting box frame to the horizontal 2X2 running across the back of the chickshaw. Look carefully and you’ll see how I just rigged up some scrap lumber to hold the nesting box frame in place while I screwed it in. Place the frame in the center. To help you do this, just make a mark in the middle of your frame at 3’ and just try your best to center this thing by eyeing it. It’s not crazy critical that you get this part exactly right.
- Screw in your vertical 9½” posts using a framing angle at the bottom and screwing in from the upper rail at the top. You’ll notice in the picture I used a “straight brace” to screw in the bottom. Yeh, no, don’t do that. I’ve since improved to framing angles.
Nesting Area Braces
- Now we’re going to put on the diagonal braces. Grab your 15” pieces and cut 45 degree angles on both ends, then drill them in as seen in the photo.
You’ll have to forgive me, the foremost brace is blurry! At first, I didn’t even want to include this pic, but I think it’s super helpful. Let’s just pretend all is well, as we focus on the diagonal brace further away. It’s all nice and clear. Hey, I’m not perfect.
After you’ve put on those diagonal braces you can remove that “jerry rigged” scrap lumber that’s helping to hold up the nesting area.
- Now it’s time for some paneling.
Place your middle paneling for the back wall (the one that’s 18” tall), and screw it in. The side panelings will overlap, and that’s ok.
Go ahead and attach your two side panels for the back wall (the ones that are 31”) . Yep, the corners will cover the opening to the nesting box. Take your tin snips and cut off the corners to reveal the opening into the next box.
The back wall should look something like this:
- The side panels are a bit trickier, but by now, we’ve got this “tricky thing” down.
Screw your “back” side panels in. They’re also 31” long. Place them so that the extra is sticking over the top. Go ahead and tin snip what’s “overhanging”.
While you’re at it, screw in your “middle” side panels in too. There the ones that are 29 3/16”. Now, cut extra off of the top as well.
- Now, let’s slap together our door, it’s easy.
Screw in three 14” 2X2’s into your 2X2 piece of plywood somewhat evenly like so:
- Attach your hinges to your door, then attach your door in the center of the front:
- Screw in your 8”X1½” piece of ¾” of plywood (or similar) to the middle of the top bar along the front.
- Now screw in your bolt lock. The slide bolt side goes on the cross bar, and the receiver goes on the door like so. Now, my lovely assistant, affectionately calling herself, “Pumpkin Pie” will show you what I’m talking about:
Mounting the Wheel Braces
- First, flip the rickshaw (very carefully). I lifted it up to one side, then gently let it down.
- Mount your metal 2X4 joist hangers to the sides, as seen in the picture. Notice, one is at the corner area and the other is mounted about four feet away on one of the vertical wall posts (make sure you mount the bracket to these posts). I’m only going to show you my handiwork for one side, so make sure you repeat the process for the other side.
- Now, install your two 6” 2’X4’s into the bracket. You’ll notice the bracket I got will also accommodate at 6” of 2X4, so there’s some extra bracket (no big deal). You should still be able to put at least one screw on either side.
- You can now install your 11” diagonal braces after you’ve cut the ends to 45 degree angles.
- I think it’s best to go ahead and put your 4’¾” 2X4 on now. Screw it into your two 6” 2X4’s.
- Now it’s time to make some marks. I really over-emphasised my marks so you could see them in the photo below. Look closely, can you see them? There are three of them on the long 2X4. The one in the middle is 24’⅜” from the end. The other two are 14” from that middle mark. Go ahead, mark away. If you don’t understand what we’re doing with all these marks, I think you’ll get it in a minute.
- Now you screw in the two other 6” 2X4’s just outside your outer marks. These are your “inner” supports. Take a good look at the picture, and I think you’ll get the drift. These “inner” 2X4’s are for good measure to help support all the weight the outer 2X4 is going to carry.
- Last but not least, put a flat bracket on each end (for crazy beastly support). Notice how this bracket connects our three essential supports: the 6” piece, the diagonal piece, and the long 2X4. Do this on both sides of this “contraption”.
Mounting the Wheels
- Once again, I’m just showing you one side, so you’ll have to repeat these steps for the other side. Put your ¾” bolt through the wheel. Include the washer and spacer on one end.
- Set the wheel in the center of your wheel brace. You should have a line marked in the middle from step #39, so just center your bolt on that. Now, screw in your ½” metal pipe straps to hold down both sides of your bolt. BAM! You’ve mounted your wheels.
Mount Your Front Legs:
- Place your 13’½” 2X2 on your front corners and attach with the framing angles.
- Mount your angle clips to both sides.
- Screw in your two 6” diagonal braces to both sides of the leg. Cut the ends to 45 degree angles. It’s crazy, you can’t see the other angle brace in this photo, but it’s there.
- BAM!!! you’re done with the bottom. Now, flip this thing back over. I’m not sure which way you flipped it last time, but this time we need to make sure you flip it towards the wheels. If we flip it sideways we’ll put too much pressure on the leg. Anyway, just do this: Grab it on the front side (that’s the side with the two legs) and turn it up on it’s back. Then go and gently let the Chickshaw down. All the weight will end up on the wheels (no problem).
Attaching the Hinged Roofing Frame
- First, mount your hinges to the back wall of the main structure, two feet from either side.
- Now, take one of your 6’5” 2X2’s and attach it to your hinges. Make sure that your 6’5” piece is sticking 2 ½” out from either side (this insures your board is centered).
Framing the Roof
- Let’s build our roofing frame, it’s super simple. So, lay out your two, 6’8” 2X2’s parallel to each other, about 6’5” apart. Now make some marks along your 6’8” pieces at 4”, 20”, 40” and 60”.
- Screw in two of your 6’5” cross pieces onto either end of your 6’8” pieces.
- Then, screw in the remaining four, 6’5” pieces along your marks and one both sides.
Placing the Roof
- Now, go ahead and put the roof on. You’ve got to attach the roof frame to your “hinge” board. Here’s the trick though: The end of the roof frame has to stick out four inches from your “hinge” board like you see in the picture. That way, your roof will stick out evenly on the front and back.
Attaching the Roof Panels
- Place your four 6’8” panels on the roof. A couple things to note: By now, you’ve noticed the roof is on a slant. Make sure to run the panels from front to back, NOT from side to side. I should also say that there will be a lot of overlap with your panels. That’s totally ok, and it doesn’t really matter where you overlap. If you’re particular, then by all means, measure and trim away.
- Screw the panels into your roofing frame using your roofing screws.
Attaching the Arms
- In the photo below I’m placing the original 2X2 handles, but I’ve since upgraded it to 2X4’s (needed for extra strength). You’ll also notice the small wheel and wheel frame. Yeh, no, that didn’t work either. Nevertheless, the photo is still useful. First thing you’ll want to do is attach one end of your 5’6” handles to the frame. Just use one screw! That way your handle can still swivel so that you can adjust your height (before making it permanent in a second).
- Now, hold the handle a foot or more below your waistline. That’s where you want it to permantly to be. That way, when you pick up the handle to move the “shaw”, you’ll be holding the handle around your waistline. Somehow you’re going to have to mark your spot and screw in the handle to make it steady. If I remember right, I carefully held the handle while walking (more like shuffled) to where I could screw in the handle right where it needed to be. If you have someone with you, they could hold it in place or mark it for you.
Attaching the Handle
- For the handle, you’ll need a strong metal pole (at least 6’11” long and not more than 2” in diameter). My pole was 6’11” long and 1 ¼” in diameter so if you’re going to source one (because you don’t have a scrap pole sitting around like I did) go ahead with my dimensions. For the sake of the rest of these instructions, I’ll assume you’re using my dimensions. If not, just adjust your plan accordingly. I know you can figure it out.
- Get a 1½” hole saw for drilling your holes in the handle for the poles, and well… drill the holes. And don’t worry, a hole saw is not an entirely new saw, it’s just a drill bit attachment for your current drill. If you’re not using my specs, just make sure your hole is drilled bigger than the diameter of the handle (for obvious reasons – You’ll need to get your pole into the holes).
Attaching the Roof Latches
- We better attach your Safety Hasps, cuz if you don’t your roof will fly off. Um… let’s just say my bad experience is your gain. I really think the picture speaks for itself, but I’ll explain a little bit. Mount your latch as seen in the picture, on the inner roofing frame (that should rest just on top of your main frame). It’s a little tricky screwing into that spot, so I screwed at an angle, and I used a long, 6” phillips screwdriver in my drill.
- Now, dance a little jig…No, wait… I got a better idea. Take this thing for a spin. And remember, it works better with a camera;)
- Ok, now that you’re back from your little joy run. I realized I forgot something. The nesting boxes! The chickens will need somewhere to lay. But it’s pretty easy.
Creating the Nesting Boxes
- Take your sawzall or hand held PVC pipe saw and cut your entrances out of your milk crates. Notice, in the photo below, how I left a few inches on either side and left a bottom lip of about four inches. You can be a little flexible with this, as every milk crate layout is different and sometimes it’s just easier to cut it a certain way.
- Stuff the crates with straw or some other type of bedding and stick em in, making sure your opening is towards the inside.
Moving the Birds Into Their New Home
- Ok folks… give yourself a big round of applause… Now go ahead and get some chickens in this thing. Probably the easiest way to do this is at night while the birds are lethargic and “blind”. Get them from their old house and place them in the chickshaw.
- Let the chickens out in the morning, and you’ll notice most of them go back in that evening. You’ll probably have to round up a few the next couple of days until they get the gist. Be sure to hide their old house somewhere, otherwise some will seek it out (and get confused).
Congratulations! You made your very own ChickShaw!
What are you waiting for?
Download the FREE plans for my ChickShaw 2.0 HERE.
Filed Under: Articles, UncategorizedSours: https://abundantpermaculture.com/mobile-chicken-coop/
10 Free Portable Chicken Coop Plans
Do you need a portable chicken coop? Follow these 10 free DIY portable chicken coop plans that include step by step detailed instructions to craft a cheap movable chicken coop. Permit your chickens to walk freely while keeping them in the confines of a protected area using these portable chicken coop plans! Actually, the portable chicken coop is basically a chicken tractor! So, these chicken tractor plans will allow chickens to feed one patch of grass every morning in controlled environments, saving the rest of the yard and neighbor’s property! Furthermore, the hens will help in easy weeds and insect removal making the land fertile, these free mobile chicken coop plans will help in!
Turn to raise chickens into big fun with these portable chicken coop plans will not bound your chickens to one place. From creative manual wood chicken coop constructions to recycled chicken coop projects, the chicken coop ideas involve all to choose a budget-friendly design. You need the minimal woodworking skills to build most of these mobile chicken coop plans that you can easily drag here and there at outdoor to provide new grass to your chickens every time.
Find Free Portable Chicken Coop Plans
Browse these 10 movable chicken coop plans that involve building too many beautiful and popular chicken coop designs at home without breaking the bank. These chicken tractor ideas will also help to start your own mini poultry business, and these homemade hen houses will help a lot in easy chicken raising managements.
Cover an old swing set half with an iron sheet and a half with chicken wire to gain a movable chicken coop. Add up the normal hen houses with bottom wheels and provide some kind of dragging handles to the to make a quick portable chicken coop. Reclaim also the old cribs to make moving chicken houses that will be super easy to drag and push. If you are an advanced woodworker, then amaze the audience by building a geodesic chicken dome house, will impress at a very first look. Take a short visit to all these DIY chicken coop plans that are cool enough to consider for your poultry startup.
1. Mobile Chicken Coop Plan
Learn how to build a portable chicken coop! You can carry your chicken anywhere using this mobile chicken coop. You need here 19 lengths of 2 x 4 x 8s, 2 lengths of 1 x 4 x 8s, 16 lengths of 1×2, 3/4” thick plywood, PVC roof panel, marathon flat-free tires, milk crates, hardware cloth, wood dowel, and hardware to make it. Details here abundantpermac
2. Portable Chicken Coop Under $100
Do you love woodworking? We’ve featured free woodworking projects from Ana White, a self-taught designer, and builder dedicated to helping people create their own furniture. So, don’t let yourself or your chickens bored by staying at the same place. Just build this portable chicken coop by spending less than $100, and it will allow you to drag this DIY hen house anywhere at your backyard. Grab 14 lengths of 2 x 4 x 8′, a sheet of 3/4” thick t1-t11, 30′ chicken wire with 30” width, 1x2s, and leftover plywood pieces to make it. Ana White
3. DIY Portable Chicken Coop
Help your chickens to be anywhere outdoor with the safety coverage using this portable chicken coop. It looks like a mini wooden bungalow and provides edged out wood handles for easy dragging. Build this portable hen house using wood, 20′ plastic roofing, and 10′ of chicken wire. Details here blessthismess
4. Cattle Panels Mobile Chicken Coop
Building this cattle panels mobile chicken coop, a portable version of the hen house will cost less than $200. First, put together the durable wooden lengths to build the base foundation, and then install the cattle panels in an arched shape, should end inside the wood foundation, secure them there in place. Add a front door and cover it with 12′ x 16′ tarp. Find the portable chicken run details here naturalblaze
5. Swing Set to movable Chicken Coop
Repurpose the old swing set to build a simple movable chicken coop with a triangular front. Just cover half o the swing set with the iron sheet, just bolt them in place. Next, cover the rest of the frame with the chicken wire and get a movable chicken coop version. Details here countryliving
6. How to Build a Geodesic Chicken Dome
The chicken will love to live in this geodesic dome house that comes with an inspiring structure. Repeat the wooden pentagons and triangles to get this geodesic portable chicken coop design. Provide a solid bottom and raise it up the durable wooden dowel legs. Finish with a ramp. Details here anthony
7. Homemade Portable Chicken Coop
If you are a fan of creatively build wooden structures, then you will give ten out of ten to this portable chicken coop. This hen house features a bungalow style painted chicken home that is having an attached chicken run to its bottom side. Make it with plywood, pressure-treated lumber, and chicken wire. Don’t forget to use the rest of the top to build a planter box or tray. ladygoats
8. Portable Chicken Coop from Old Crib
Building this rolling chicken coop will cost you less than $50. This upcycled mobile chicken coop is actually a creative remake of an old crib. Just paint an old crib and add up a wains coating and trim. Cover the sides with chicken wire and add up one of the sides with a ramp. Use extra wood to fill the sides solid. Details here weedemandreap
9. Trictle’s Chicken Coop Plan
Build this miniature wooden bungalow to nicely house your thickens, will complete super quickly. Just build the overall frame of it using the 4×4 and other wood slats like 2x4s. And next just sheath the primary skeleton with the plywood and insulate the completed structure with r-13 batt insulation. Details here backyardchickens
10. Portable Chicken Coop on Wheels for 10 Chickens
Do you want rolling chicken coops? Get here the video instructions to build a portable chicken coop on wheels for 10 chickens. Just build the overall frame first using your own choice of wood boards of pressure-treated lumber or pine wood. Use a staple gun then and cover the whole model with chicken wire. Build a hinged lid or roof and cover the roof, too, with a tarp or waterproof fabric for rainwater proofing. youtube
Pallet Chicken Coop:
Build a functional DIY chicken coop at home with these 25 free pallet chicken coop plans that will help you to save money and build with free pallets.
Raising chicken may be challenging as you have to feed the chickens regularly while providing them safe and comfortable environments to live. If you don’t want to finish the freedom of your chicken so they can go for a pest hunt on new grass every day, then consider building these DIY portable chicken coop plans that you can drag to any outdoor location favorite to your chickens. These moving houses will still keep your chickens safe from predators while visiting every party of your outdoor or green garden. So, do try making chicken coops with these free provided step-by-step instructions, tutorials, and visual guides.
Designs coop portable chicken
How to Design and Build Your Own Portable Chicken Coop
- 1 sheet 1/2 inch plywood
- 4 8-foot 2-by-4 boards
- 6 10-foot 2-by-4 boards
- 4 12-foot 2-by-4 boards
- 4 to 8 metal corner braces
- Deck screws (assorted)
- Twigs, branches, old ladders
- Metal hardware cloth
- Plastic tubs or old wooden crates
- 2 pairs metal utility hinges
- 1 roll 1-inch mesh chicken wire
- Galvanized steel roofing, greenhouse plastic, or tarps
- Metal ridge cap
- 4 carriage bolts with wing nuts
- 4 Utility wheels with 1/2 inch axle bores
- Fence staples
Here you'll find a general overview of the supplies, tools, and steps needed to build a portable chicken coop. For more help on the Ussery's project, read more extensive plans for this pasture shelter.
Build the Bottom Frame
The bottom frame of this coop is built with 2-by-4-inch lumber with metal corner braces and screws used to secure the frame pieces together at the joints. Choose a size for the bottom frame that creates a good footprint size for the coop.
If you're using your coop with a surrounding fence, plan on a minimum of 3 square feet of floor space per bird. The movable coop shown here measures 9 feet by 8 feet, or 72 square feet, which is a good size for about 24 chickens.
It is essential that the bottom of the frame be perfectly square. You can use a carpenter's square to ensure the squareness of the frame. Or, you can check for square by taking the diagonal measurements from opposite corners of the frame. If both diagonal measurements are equal, the frame is square.
Build the Frame
The portable coop being built here is an A-frame design. Use a table saw to rip 2-by-4-inch lumber into thinner pieces for the diagonal rafters and the top ridge board of the coop. A power miter saw is helpful for cutting proper angles on the ends of the rafters. Assemble the pieces together with deck screws. In traditional construction, spacing between rafters is 16 inches apart, although 12- or 24-inch spacing is also possible.
Two additional bottom stringers are installed with deck screws to provide greater stability to the bottom frame.
Collar ties are added across the A-frame rafters to tie them together to add stability. Then the end framing is built with three vertical studs that form a frame for a door at each end of the coop.
This design uses additional long stringers attached about 2 feet directly above the floor stringers to serve as roost bars for the birds. A vertical support post supports each roost bar in the center.
In this design, the collar ties between rafters also serve as high roosts. For high roosts, make sure hens have a way to get up to them. In this design, birds can reach the high roosts by hopping from the lower roosts.
Roosts can be made out of recycled and repurposed materials. Twigs and branches work especially well, as do old ladders. For portable chicken coops, though, make sure that the roosts are fastened to the frame securely.
Laying hens usually prefer to roost if given the option, but these roost bars won't be necessary for meat birds or broilers, which typically don't roost. Pullets and cockerels begin roosting at about three to four months of age.
Build Nest Boxes
If you keep laying hens, you'll need nest boxes where the birds can lay eggs. These can be very simple boxes lined with a metal hardware cloth on the bottom and attached to the frame of the coop. The sizes of the boxes will vary depending on the available space.
The nest box construction looks like this:
- Build a simple box out of 2-by-2-inch boards, securing the joints with deck screws.
- Add a 2-by-2-inch boards as the floor "joist" across the middle of the box for stability, again attaching it with deck screws.
- Staple metal hardware cloth across the bottom of the box frame.
- Add 4-inch to 6-inch high sides of plywood to the boxes attached with deck screws.
- Position the boxes in the desired locations, securing them to the roost bars and collar ties with deck screws.
If you want to use recycled materials, next boxes might be constructed from plastic tubs or old wooden crates attached to the coop frame with screws.
Aim for one nest box, or 1-square-foot of community nest space, for every four or five hens. Nest boxes should be at least 2 feet off the ground. They will be lined with straw.
Cover the Ends of the Coop
Although the ends of the coop can be left open entirely, this plan protects the portions adjacent to the nest boxes with 1/2-inch plywood. The plan includes constructed swinging door panels attached with hinges, which allows for easy access for gathering eggs and cleaning the nest boxes.
It's possible to cover over most of the end area of the coop with plywood or scrap wood, but remember that full enclosure will mean less ventilation. In an A-frame design like this one, all air circulation will come from cross ventilation through the ends of the coop. It's a good idea to leave enough open space on the ends of the coop to allow for air to flow.
Build Doors and Enclose the Ends of the Coop
Normally, it's best if your coop has end doors that you can close at night, and so that you can confine the chickens inside when you move the coop. It's also a good idea to be able to shut the hens in for the selection of specific chickens for culling or other purposes (such as isolating a sick hen).
These doors are made from a simple frame made with 2-by-2-inch lumber plus a diagonal cross brace, which is then covered with chicken wire. Flat metal braces reinforce the corners of the frame. If you wish, the door can be secured to the end studs with hinges mounted on one side of the door. Or, if the will only be used sporadically, the door can be screwed in place when needed.
The remaining triangular spaces above and to the sides of the door are also covered with chicken wire.
Build a Roof
Roofing can be of many materials, and certainly scavenged and repurposed roofing of any sort can work. This coop's roof was made with painted galvanized steel roofing. Other possible materials you could use include greenhouse plastic or a tarp.
Metal panels are cut to fit and secured to the rafters with screws. A V-shaped metal ridge cap at the top will seal the top against water. Apply caulk to the seams from the inside to make sure the coop is watertight.
This roof has a slight overhang at the ends to provide additional rain protection.
Wheels are a key part of any movable chicken coop unless the coop is so small that it can be dragged along the ground or lifted and carried. Make sure your wheel is large enough to ensure good clearance on your terrain—use bigger wheels for bumpy, uneven ground and smaller ones for level, short-cut grass. Wheels that are too big will allow birds to slip out from under the bottom frame as you move.
Wheels can be installed by drilling and inserting carriage bolts through the bottom frame of the coop at all four corners, then using these bolts as axles to hold utility wheels in place. When you move your hens across the pasture, go slowly and watch for any chickens getting caught under the back of the frame. If you move slowly enough, the birds should get the idea and move along with the coop.
Into her. She couldn't do it the first time, so Ann waited for her muscles to relax a little. This time he entered so confidently that Anne leaned against the table for balance as her knees trembled treacherously. The only reason she stayed on her feet was because her new shoes were too stiff to allow her feet to buckle.
In order not to change her mind, Ann quickly snapped the plate on her belt.
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08: 48): Well, it's great that you have approved the ROCKET in terms of clothing. The SECOND part of today's ROCKET - you obey Oleg's demands for half an hour. The second part of the ROCKET - have you accepted it.